Tuesday, December 8, 2009

A West Texas town in El Paso

So.....
Right now El Paso seems to be the windy city.  Today, officially is windy as shit. Waking up at my friend Antonio's we we're notified by the local police offica that a tree had been blown down in the front yard. We looked out front at the tree that had been yanked from the ground by mother nature's fury. The roots exposed facing the dusty sky while blocking all traffic. 

The climbing out here has been pretty sweet so far. 
I feel like after sport climbing a majority of the year, I am finding that bouldering seems to get me more physically worked. 
The Park is beautiful. The season has hit, the ground already seeing 3 snow days in the oddest of places; West Texas, El Paso. 
After leaving Gunnison, I am becoming attracted to a new area. The rock is here. It's not leaving. The local crew has been really cool, and both the Ranch and town seem to have really reasonable living costs. I could see myself using January-April to spend my energy climbing and working in El Paso. 

The climbing in the park has been really cool. I have been applying myself on a few FA's I have found in the park. 
The first I completed was a shorter version of the full extension traverse on the Nobody gets out of here alive boulder. the climbing begins with a crouching stand on the right (Southwest side the boulder.  A sequence of technical moves that can be conquered with pure powerful bouldering moves, some being Dynamic. 10-13 moves lead to the lip  of the Famous Nobody get out  problem. That link was witnessed by Andrew Oliver a guide a Hueco. He recommended the name, "Everybody here is Dead" I figured the name was more than suitable. The entire link will then reverse nobody and exit out the back roof  on an unamed boulder problem.The link to the roof is somewhere around v7 then reversing nobody stands at V2 and the exiting boulder problem is somewhere around a v5 so ? cool. It's a great way to kill 3 birds with one stone. Hey that's a good name too. 
The next completed FA I called "Sistakayla" or "Jonezer Traverse".   The route (if standing below See Spot Run ) is directly taking up about 12 to four o'clock in front of you. Maybe more like 1-4 on the visual clock. Anyways...It starts with a a v6/v7 move, traverses to a jug goes into a v5 sequence and then vinishes out the V2 traverse. I would call it a v7 FA.  Richy from the climbing gear store was present and I named it after his sister Kayla who had visited this boulder on her first ever day climbing. 
Basically, I have been running around Hueco finding something that doesn't have much traffic, and doing it. It fuels me to be creative and figure out how to get up the rock with no beta (info on how to complete the moves). If I can't do the climb my first time on it...The line turns into my project and I will astray from it till I do it. This is basically how the past few days have been. Warming up slightly and give my projects a good burn. I completed another right exit to a previous chalked climb, and the slightest placement of my foot was the key between doing and not doing the climb. 

I will be submitting all these climbs not in the book to Wolverine Publishing when an update is needed. 

I hope to develop maybe 6 or 7 FA's over the course of now till May. 

So now all I have to complete is Everyone here is dead and I will be then able to move onto some cool established routes somewhere in the v10-v11 range. 

My schedule:
Today- 12/20  -----Will be in the Tanks
12/20-26 ----------Austin with Richelle, Joe, Matt, Sheila, Virgil and Katie. 
26- Jan. 1-5---------Hueco     (if I find a job coming back to CA might be unecessary) But I will fly home for a few days. 
jan 5-18----------------San Diego (tentative) Sign up for school
Jan- May------------El Paso and beyond. 

I've talked to a few friends from back at home, and it was unfortunate that my cell phone was lost. Thanks for calling if you did. What I'm trying to get at is that when your gone for a certain while. Things slowly change. New buildings are erected, peoples situations change, you become closer to the end of this life daily. It makes you think about the things that are really important. Like Emotions, Love, Family, Passions. The decisions and ties we make now are the fabric of life. 
I try and think about these things so I don't lose them. Or so I don't think it's the first time I've thought it. I think that's what makes the the fabric stronger, more profound, and powerful. 

I tried to remember all the thoughts.
It could just be the wine. 
But could it be when you think of me, our thoughts are intertwined. 
I look into the night sky, and wonder if you think of me. 
At this certain moment see the same thing that I see. 
I'm obviously crazy, none of this could be true.
But what happens when I fall asleep and dream the same thing as you?

-Later Skaters. 
Scotty

I'll update some pictures as soon as I get some uploaded so stop back or check the next link on Facebook



 


Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Can you please Fill me in?

Me filming my Friend George from Hueco as he takes a picture. Stay tooned for Vid. comin' soon. 
George about to make the Dyno on "T-Bone Shuffle" 
Chris Lindner at Skyline Boulders, Crestebutte, CO. 

THis month's issue of Deadpoint features C.L. with me belaying...(see) on his Undone Project on the 'Pebble Boulder' near  "area 51" in West Virginia.  The routes sick yo....Like v13 boulder problem or v12 or somethin to 13 d climbing prob....then another v12 huck for the jug. Prob. WV's first 15a or 14 d. 


So....It's been a while. 
How are you? How ya' been? 
Good, Good. I am glad. 
Now let me catch up with you. Sinch March the last time we talked. 
After Baja I chose to chill back in San Diego, Ca for about a month. Chris LIndner and I would meet back in one month to start the venture X-country to West Virginia.  
When at home I hung out with friends. Did some surfing. But mostly partied a lot. Sorry....a boy's gotta party sometimes before he starts settlin' down. Ain't that true? True. 
So after having a great time at the beach, and party with all mon amies. I took off for Las Vegas to Pick up C.L. at his house that him and his girlfriend Jodi we're in the midst of selling. 
So we started drivin. 48 hours, bud. Straight up and down no sleep, RPM's rotating on the pavement like the thoughts that rotated in my head about my lost love. I am a good co-pilot for the sleep deprived chris; who's total loss of sleep totaled 72 hours due to packing the day and all night the night before I arrived in Vegas. I keep a brotha' entertained. 
Anyways so the W. VIrginia Trip went down....Cool.  Lot's of routes, some bouldering tours from DPM's M. Stark, New River Rendevous partying and the most hectic photo shoot I have ever taken place in. My legs were chaffed from sittin' in my harness for some damn long I had to coat them in Neosporin with pain relief. All in all it paid off. Check this month's issue at:
Dead Point Magazine's Website. In the New RIver section you'll see me with the classic belay prop for Chrissy. WURD!
So I had been traveling for a while at that point. My whole year...Since September! 9 or ten months exploring the rock climbing of N. America. I needed some time off. I went home to San Diego On June 1st. 
For about 3 months  I basically lost all motivation to crank.  Although I was working at the climbing gym; my time outside of the gym was not spent training for climbing but more how to hang in college during a drinking contest.  My strength dwindled as my motivation grew to become the man that I used to be. Obsessed with climbing and determined to be physically and mentally at my peak. 
San Diego was amazing. I did some very close relationships with some new people who mean a lot to me. Faye, Sara, Matty, Rocky, Mary and countless others I got to see after being absent for over a year.  
During this time back home I also was re-united with my Birth Parents. 
In West Virginia I mad a pact with myself to find my birthparents. Eventually, while back in San Diego. With a little work each day, I finally got in contact with my Cousin Kim who relayed the message both to my Biolgoical MOther "RIchelle Turano" or Gutirrez (turano was the original name I found) and Larry Mullock. My father lived in Long Beach as a Police Officer..
Remarried and with Chrildren Larry was pleased to hang with me, but unfortunately cannot introduce me to my younger half siblings because he feels they are too young. 
Richelle was a bit more open to the idea and was a very spiritually enlightening experience. 
I told my lover when I was with her that I wanted her help to find my biological parents. When she disappeared and told me she 'didn't love me anymore' my quest to find where I came from became ever more passionate. 
I now have a realtionship with both my Birth Parents, my half Brother Matty, and Joe, My grandma Sheila, Aunt Sandy and Cousin Kimmy. In december, I'll be getting picked up in El Paso and heading to Austin to meet Virgil my grandpa, my half sister, and who ever else may come. I am pretty psyched for that and getting to see some of the climbing in Austin. I also met my Great Grandfather who is a totally rad old dude. 
A few friends were with me on this amazing journey to meet my relatives. For those who were there....you know who you are....I'll hold that close to my heart forever. thanks Faybz. 
Don't get it twisted. There will never be any replacement for Bob and Meredith...EVer. But, It was really nice to finally found where I came from. 
After staying in San Diego for a while. The partying life became more than I could handle. 
C.L. Saw I was slipping so he called me up and told me he wanted to help me get back on my freet. Get crankin' again, and there was an open spot on his couch  till I got on my feet and got my own place. I drove out to Gunnison, Colorado to do just this. We climbed almost everyday, training at Western College gym and spending the weekends at the Fortress of Solitude by Rifle Mtn. Park. 
I finally found a job as a breakfast attendant and laundry man at the Local 'Affordable Inn'. The job sucked. But it paid the billz and was full time. 6 am to 1 or 3 p.m. So either I was off early or off with just enough time to climb outside or get a solid night in at the gym. 
I started getting some friends around the area that liked to Climb and hang out so that was nice. They even took me boardin.' Thanks JOsh, Mike and JOel, and dudley for the killer time! It was bad ass. The day I was going to get my apartment I was laid off my job because of the lack of work and customers that were coming through. 
So....I was sorta unpyched on staying in some cold ass ground for the winter so I decided to use the two paychecks I had earned to head down to Hueco Tanks Historic Site to enjoy some of the best bouldering in the nation. 
So that's where I'm at now. I'm actually like 5 minutes from Juarez right now coping some internet service  in a little mexican restaraunt.   I am working at the Hueco Rock Ranch in exchange for free camping. The climbing is really good and I am getting back into good shape. Right now we're all preparing for TanksGiving, at the Rock Ranch. 
Happy Holidays. 
While in Hueco I'm hoping to put a V11 under my belt. That's my real goal . I have a few in mind but I think I am gonna go for 'Dark Age' the sit start to 'See Spot Run' Wish me luck. 
LOVE YOU!

Thursday, October 15, 2009

March To Baja Video.

Thanks to a new Computer Hard Drive you can now....
Check out the Baja Trip!
In March 2009, Kevin Worrall, La Jolla Dave, Sean Shannon, Chris Lindner and Scotty Glasberg ventured deep down into Baja to explore what we had heard to be Baja's next best. The trip takes some interesting turn of events. Winding down and Back up the Peninsula, we encountered everything from Rabid Skunk Bites to Cheeba Herding. Come along for the ride. And don't forget your cerveza

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Birth Daze

The whisp from the hair of a beautiful woman.
The imagination that lies deep within a human.
The smell that intrigues me and takes over reality,
those who are bored virtue punctuality.
Argue a point whether or not it has valadity (validity)
Emotion rules life, and if you don't let it out. Yourself is left in, and never can shout.
Your eyes are the portal, when I look at your mind, release inhibitions that keep your world in a bind.
There is no such word as perfect and stillness, especially when people evade to the killings. To believe in stature, is a posture of the sober. Let my forceful angry winds of nature blow you over.
Your hair is so long, I can't see your eyes. A tactic of mine to remain un-hypnotized.
Do you judge me? Do you fine me attractive or bait? Do you know that love can turn into hate? Did you know what I have gone through before? And if you did know would it settle the score? Would you praise me or paste me in latest magazines, with eyes glued and minds used by all the young teens. With everyone wanting to be just like me. The true heroes are those that we rarely see.
With colors that bleed to be seen psychedelically with patterns so deep you can't really be, seeing what you are really trying to see, the patterns of life are inside of me. So touch me and squeeze me, and do you love me too. Grabbing your hair while my skins glued to you. Toe Curling, minds whirling, with candle flicker. The time clock, as our minds watch the see-sawing wicker. A metronome, a heartbeat, a pulsating heart, what I find in the end's full-circle from the start.
As I take my head up from the world I was once in. I look up to a picture to let out a grin. To realize that sight is to let color in, to your eyes and realize that you must begin. On an awesome journey that starts every second. That these beautiful thoughts that have always beckond, that life is changing at every second, but memories and myself remain same so I reckon.


LOVE YOU EVERYONE. Thanks for readin'.

-May 19, 2008 23 Yrs. @ Cathedral Coffee in Fayeteville, WV.

Monday, May 11, 2009

New River Rendevous:

Here's me at Seneca rocks for the Cinco De Mayo Party.
Here's Justin, JD, Leo and I hiking up to the top of Seneca. Courtesy of Friksn Climbing.
Me at Diogi's Mexican Food on Cinco De Mayo.
Me doing a roof extension at the "Junkyard Roof" I felt like this was a rad problem, because the rest day let me visit 3 areas in one day.

Proceeding Baja, I decided to kick it at home for a bit to reminice with my friends and others I had wanted to see. My prospects for the near future were to make an excursion to the NE of the United States, and visit the Renown Climbing of the New River Gorge. The New is nestled anywhere. The cliffs of sandstone scatter amongst the lush, green environment. From fast flowing rivers that roll like thunder when the rain starts poaring, and provide no shielding from the elements. To calm, riverside overhangs that tend to the rainy days you may incur.
Chris and Jimmy from Vegas, met me in San Diego after a day of packing up Chris Lindner's house in Vegas. Chris prepared a U-Haul for a move from Vegas to traveling and exploring for a bit with his girlfriend in Various Areas. I woke, met Chris and Jimmy at the U-haul storage and we rode off east for an adventure that would take over 40 hours to reach our destination.
Jimmy had to be dropped off in Vegas to his house next to Chris's old place. See Jimmy was just along for 1/9 of the trip, for he was staying in Vegas with his wife.
Chris Packed up any belongings for the trip and left a house which he called "Home" for the last two years.
That night Chris and I cut down a 40 minute hike into a 25 minute jaunt up to a newly established climbing area near Mesquite, NV called the "Ballin' Alley". We had an obligation to clean the draws at the cliff, so we'd have enough for our month long adventure.
The route we were to take was the 15 freeway to the 17 headed east all the way to 64 somewhere around the east coast.
Only about 4 out of our 40 hour sprints did we get some shut eye. The first right outside of Denver in approach to Kansas, and the next somewhere in Illinois. On several occasions Chris and I found are selves dilluisional to a certain extent.
We drove and drove along the lands, in Seneca Rocks where we would land. Where is Syneca Rocks you ask?
Around the SE portion of the state of West Virginia lies a Quartzite Monlithic Spires. The town below is incredibly small where a general store called "Yokum's" and "Gendarme" climbing holds it down. Getting there we greeted new mates, the Legendary Captain Kurt Smith and his wife Alaina. The Friksn Krew was out there so we all decided to take a hike to the top of Syneca after a beer. That night the 4th annual Cinco de Mayo party went down. Lot's of campers and people from all over came out to have fun, drink, watch C.L's slideshow, and well... party. The night went on late, and Chris and I crashed out after a nice freestyle and laugh session in the Friksn party van. As the rain poured, my thoughts seemed to seep off the balcony's horizonatal boards, down to the ground below. We woke up on the second story balcony of the Ac's and Diane's balcony. I then sluggishly walked in the kitchen to claim my pancakes to ease the pain from the evening's events, that still seemed to linger heavily between my eyes and head.
That day we took off to Fayetville, WV to set up camp in Kurt Smith's backyard. The backyard we've come to know as "Camp de Kurt." For a monthly fee of dishes at night and garden building we earn our right to be in such fine quarters. Besides the 10:50 p.m. or the 1 a.m. bedtime call; between wake-up time and then, the house and town is ours for what we need. The rule is just to keep everything more clean than you found it. So besides climbing my ass off, I'll come home with some more character.
The climbing has been cool. There's been alot of rain but we've managed to climb at some cool areas. The colleseum tends to the rainy days, where I'm projecting a stiff 5.13 b called "Pod". Since I hadn't climbed for about 1 month I'm trying to redpoint a cool route and to climb more fitness oriented routes to get back to where I was in the Fall. Chris put some draws up on a really cool route called "Still life" which involves a henious crux at the finishing headwall.
Matt Stark, from Dead Point Magazine took us bouldering on one occasion, which turned out to be more of a rain scramble through high river rushings and moss tree scramblin'. On top of it, at the end, we ended up losing Matt's dog. The day turned out to be a blessing in disguise. We walked over a railroad track bridge, back to the cars and went on with our Cinco De Mayo festivities.
The area is pretty cool. Everyone is preparing for the New River Rendevous and I'm trying to help out as much as I can.
Porter, one of the area locals climbed with us one day at an area dubbed, "The Endless Wall". The wall can be endless if you want it to, you just have to think of it that way.
The walls drift down a gorge filled with trees that bloom from the water's gift.
And where the cliffs reside we chose to climb.
Hardened Sandstone was divine, rolling like the water below.
Chris decided to hang some bolts on a project. The line was typical of projects here, stellar climbing, up to a stopper crux. This project, like "Still Life" at the Colleseum both offered their asthetic glory, which apparently offers the most killer routes.
I hadn't climbed for a while so I ran some laps on some moderate climbs with well-versed climber, Porter Jerrard. We hiked out, stopped by a quick south east climber's coalition meeting, and then went home to eat and watch the playoffs.
Mikey Williams, a Fayetville local and current strong hardman, picked us up from the local climbing shop to take us to an area named "The Meadow". We rode in "Roadkill's" van with an upcoming aspiring photographer named Dan Heller. Dan's got some o.k. photos, but his fitness and lack of climbing experience does complicate obtaining his goal.
The Meadow's a long cliff of concrete sandstone on the other side of a gravel road adjacent to a narrow river tributary. The climbing is steep, continuous and very exciting. Chris was interested in a bolted project and worked on this for our first day cuplet. I really wanted to work on my fitness to do "P.O.D." so found myself working a fitness oriented 13 a. Not climbing much, nor training for a month since St.George, I found myself falling at the last bolt before the top on this full length beauty sprint. That's fine with me though, I am happy to be climbing at the level that I am without training or climbing, not to mention hanging with friends a lot.
Now that the Rendevous is getting started we headed out one more day out to "Area 51" with a caravan of people.
The New River Rendevous is located at Burnwood Camprgound on the 19 freeway before the sweeping bridge that leaps over the gushing New River.
Yesterday morning I was awaken by a militaristic call from Chris Lindner. Rushing out to the car to meet up with San Diego Native, climber, and Evolve Representative Buck Branson, and Chris; my pants were not even saftened. I soon found myself at Kenny Parker's newly erected abode. The land out here is really cheap. People are living in well sized quarters on 300+ to 700- dollar mortages. This is the place to move if you have a sweet heart and want nothing else to do but climb on some of the best rock in the country, kayak, and hang with some of the most down to earth friendly people on earth.
Back to my story, Kenny built a californiaesque 3 or 4 story crib, that really struck me as very honorable. Kenny's kind face implied that my thoughts had been well sent.
The three of us San Diegans loaded up a trailer with climbing walls for the climbing competition at Burnwood campground and took off back to the house.
Moses, Metolious's representative from Bend, Oregon greeted us there with a bundle of energy and a sharp smile as he peered from behind his spectacles.
Kurt had a project.
Using the dirt from the a house that the neighbor had bought and then burned down publically, our assignment was to fill a perimeter of railroad ties with soilable dirt. Kurt wanted to grow some Rhododendron for his wife Alaina.
So for the next few hours, this is what we did. Shoveled, loaded, and dumped dirt back and forth, back and forth.
We soon completed are task for what it was worth and this night was the night of the dealer camp. We had a party at Kurt's, met some great folks, and actually made friends with a really nice young folks. More on that later.
The rest of the weekend was spent getting stuff ready for the New River Rendevous. We have gathered a ton of great friends out here. It is really one of the only places I have went, and felt totally at home and comfortable. It's one of those trips where I don't want to go home; it could be just easier to stay or move somewhere out here.
Kurt Smith (the general) gave me instructions to do the art for the background of the band. This made yesterday quite leisure and fun. I figured that if I wasn't thinking about time, finishing the project; it is something that I love to do.
More and more people started coming in. Everything from Lynn Hill to grungy dirt bags stealing gear; the NRR 09' brought in some interesting folks. I had a fun time meeting new people and creating new relations. I got to ketchup with some folks from Petzl, Friksn, Metolious, Evolve, So Ill and Cryptochild, and OdUb. You know, the regular traveling sponsors.
I got my groove on on the dance floor, and quickly got a call to head to this house party. Dario, from the Red took as to a real fatty cabin. 20 rooms and 1 jacuzzi. Anyone down?
So here we are all sitting around the couch. With the games starting, eyes are shutting. It's been a long couple weeks, and we're all pretty cashed. The weather just cooled and this week will be dedicated to spending as much time climbing as we can.
Next week, we leave for Greenbourough, NC where I will hopefully meet up with my friend Mackenzie whom I met over the weekend. The plan is to meet up with our friend Tyson (from San Diego) and go check out the world class bouldering in Boone, NC. Locals Pat and Jessa will be there to guide us on our adventure.
From there, we'll drive into Colorado, to attend a wedding for my friend Eric Harrison or EZ. EZ took me out climbing my first time at the Tramway, CA. If I'm not able to attend whole wedding, I'll either go ketchup with friends in boulder, or visiit other's in Fort Collins. Besides that, I'll be home for the month of June, and have some interesting prospects that I'm willing to grab for my future.
I'll end the update with some words:
The trip was long, as my mind was the same, thoughts resided which I couldn't tame. I couldn't beleive it I needed what I had not. Not realizing the present is all that I've got. A call, a note, but nothing felt genuine, my body was idle but filled with adrenaline. For what I was asking, there was no more rush, no anticipation, no blush, and no one to touch. I didn't realize what Full Circle had meant, that to make something new, you first have to invent. With the next turn, or corner I cross, is a step into leisure or life's albatross. Please take a chance, to look deep in my eyes; I'll tell you myself, no lies, no disguise.

Monday, May 4, 2009

A Baja, California Adventure



Check out www.asanaclimbing.blogspot.com to read about the Baja, California vacation.

AND

Check out chrislindner.com for more info.

Sunday, March 8, 2009

St. George Synopsis



Hey,
Whats goin' on everyone. I'm about to tell you what has begun. I say begun, because my this is of the past. To write down my words is to make them last.
A man to remember rubber on the road, has dreams of real stature,that light then explode. The might of the man immeasurable to that of a beast, because a man becomes distracted to what a beast can reach. Too many signs, and lights, the deafening sound, too much to grasp what is all around. In this moment, an oppenent, we sometimes choose to forget, when the mirror image becomes a threat.
And on the road I have chose to beaten, fluidly seeping through earths deep end. Immersed in a nights sky of rotation and wonder, intrigued only by the speech of mother natures thunder. My voice is not big, not a stream nor a tree. How much of a human can we actually be? While love is tugging, and your belly is aching, reach deep into yourself and put back whats been taken. The words might be right on the tip of your toung, the voice of your choice that makes quiver, when sung. And please sing to me, like I did to you, for I rue the actions that make man a fool.
Acorns that've swayed scorned weave under your feet, yourself natural, while things that revolve around you to meet, are quite factual and actually are nice to defeat.
two oxymorons can't coexist peacefully, thats why I choose to be me frequently.
The climbing is great out here in St. George, tomorrow we'll go to the Virgin River Gorge,
We already went to a few different spots, if your thinking was their climbing, of course there was lots. With all kind of rocks in and abundant amount, so many feet that I couldn't count.
The first spot we hit was called "Soul Asylum", the "Gorilla cliffs" sit right next beside them. A small cave and cliff shaded in the A.M. while the sun rotated, we just sat belayin. Baskin and screamin' and havin a ball, there was no real time to adminster falls. This was the first day, so we hiked up quite a long hill, to see a cliff called "The diamond" was shinin' for afternoon thrills. Walking back to the car and jump into my bed to let go of the thoughts that reside in your head.
Dream and wake up and and just to move on, staring into the dawn a new day has begun.
To Sin City we chose to drive, at my friend, Chris's where we would arrive. To stay one night, and head out on the next, to hike to the "Ballin' Alley", that get's the legs vexed. The pack were heavy, for the night we would stay, we had to meet Damon [Vaughan] who was on his way. Chris, Ryan, Damon, and I hiked into the night with potion for lotion looking at the stars light. Where we sat and then slept, to wake up and find, an already poured cup of the finest mountain grind. Sending the route, I fell off before, of course at the anchors I yelled out "ROAR!"
At the end of the day we chose to hike down, " A du" Chris and Jodi as I gave them a pound. Keep right and keep tight for I know that ain't no problem, because if there was yo, those two would solve em. The Cathedral was a steeple of overhung rock, we sent a and spent all the time on the clock. Camping and vamping while amping on thangs, bluegrass over pass with the tunes we would sing. Late into the night, huddle watching flicks, dissing and hissing and laughing over kicks. If thrills were drills the we'd ace em' all, but I heard in the distance the "Chuckwalla" cliff call. A small ball of wall, with textured sandstone, 7 or 8 pitches of riches got our skills honed. While Pablo and Jamie, helped me find my phone. Back to the house where we'd share times of good. "Should we go to 'Snow Canyon'"
"We probably should."
So the next day, the crest's played games with the sun, "livin' on the edge" (5.10 c 3 pictches) had just begun. We climbed and rapped and ventured south a bit, to the "Doc House" the rock house of sandstone well lit. One pitch, two pitch, three pitch four, How many pitches can you do before your sore. "Let's bail I gave a wail, sent out to my crew, if my honey'd catch some sunny than I'd be out with true. Get it, don't forget it, let it last like some candy, if bunny be my honey than her name I would brand see. Mexican back again to the house we would go, after dinner, felt a winner, let the shower steam blow. Crack a drink make me think, with my crew sittin' back, wack channel click the panel and make the screen black. Wish I could kick the stick but it keeps comin' back.
The next day was the last day for Jamie and Pablo, I took my car not real far, to a boulder field called "Moe"'s. Valley was the alley that had all the sick joints, by joints, I mean the problems, and we'd tally up points. of all grades, from different stages and experience, climbing takes a lot of work and perserverance.
That's why I sit it here, trying not to forget, all the time that it took to get here and the gallons of sweat. Pouring, and swearing, and meditating from me, in my next life, set as lichen or a tree. With my girl standing next to me, like flower in wind, shes the next day the best day with pride stand proud with my kin. Fateful is debateful, and I'll wait to see, if the one that I love, is truly cut out for me. And if not, then I've got, to return where I've been, because there is no prize when theres no game to win.

Thank for reading.
Thanks to Noah Harper for telling me to keep up with my writing.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

First Ascent Video

Welcome Everyone. 
First of all Happy New Year..
I got back from my Road Trip and went to Utah for a few weeks with my father.
I did some climbing out there and hung out with old friends like Noah, Dana, and even Chris came up to enjoy the festivities. 
Getting home we continued to develop the dessert of Culp Valley, and got some climbing in @ Mt. Woodson. 
I gotta get out on the road again though. Staying at home I finally acumulated a 75 inch mattress and need get my car together. 
I have been climbing but definately not as much when I was able to wake up next to beautiful rocks. 
I plan to take off where I can get the most climbing in. 

I took this semester off school. I really need to work on what I love, and I love to climb. This way I can apply myself in the job market (which I know isn't too swell, but...)

Plans are to eventually meet up with Ryan from Fort Collins, CO in Vegas where we're gonna' go hang out in St. George where Ryan's mom also happens to live. 

Dope. 

I will also be working on a video for Asana Climbing about climbing safety so stay tuned for that. Fortunately, my dad is able to hook me up with a camera. I am really grateful that my parents support my climbing. Although, this trip will be about branching away from home; I still see my father's sharing and my mom's support as motivation to persue, dedicate, and commit to obstacles I know , with perservierence I can achieve. 

I made a video out of the footage I captured at Culp Valley. 
This problem is super rad. 
The rock is a protruding figure with a knobby arete on the left side. To the way right is a gravely crack with maybe some more potential on the very far right. Nestled in between is a monolith gray in color. A jump start to this feature leaves you hanging while the challenging moves are ahead. A killer all out deadpoint to a solid patina feature in a seam leaves 1 foot hanging and another 12 feet of climbing on a direct line that hadn't been climbed.
The camera battery was low so we switched off the cameras and continued to climb our hearts out. I nailed another 1st ascent that starts below a roof and involves a series of using technique with dynamic movement to move out of the roof to a series of left hand bumps to big moves and a technical mantel. Really fun.  I was really happy with that trip out to Culp. I took my friend who had never been outdoors, out. 

Hope you enjoy the video, and hope your all doing well. Check out the link below to check out the new video. 

Should be around San Diego setting up my car. See ya' out there. 

Hope the video creates some inspires some emotion. 

Stay tuned for a great year. 
Til' then I'll be trying to hard keep motivated and in shape. 
Peace. 










Monday, January 5, 2009

PROBAR!

Just got hooked up with Pro Bar Nutritional Food Bars!
Very excited to be representing such a wholesome company.
Leaving Mexico Tomorrow for Heuco, with a long awaited rest back home to see my loved ones, and friends. 
Mexico was quite an ordeal....More on this later.
Went to an area called Culo De Gato today...Bomber Sport Climbing...El Protero is definately is of high interest for myself in the future. 

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Hanging out in Portero

Hey everyone, 
Just another quick blog post. 
I only have about ten minutes because I am leaving for a sport climbing area in Mexico called El Salto. 
So far the trip has been a bit strange. We got held up in Del Rio for a boggy 2 days, and to our surprise, stumbled on some climbing on some limestone along the Del Rio in Amistad National Park. Beautiful area, if you haven't seen it. 
So we got down to Mexico and was informed within the first few days that Ruben wanted to spend more time climbing with his girlfriend and local Eguardo Baca (who was supposed to be my partner in Rifle). 
Unfortunately I had to resort to partner finding tactics to climb..So far that hasn't been much of an ordeal, though I haven't really established a project, and am not really seeing what I really want to check out..
I have been climbing a lot of random climbs, learning to just settle, respecting a climbing day as not trying to send your latest project all the time, but also learn to love those days where you just go with the flow. 
So today I've convinced my road trip partners (the originals) that it's a good idea to go to El Salto (which is another sport area) which we head to today. Two Days there, two days back here, and then back home for me.
Happy New Year everyone.