Right now El Paso seems to be the windy city. Today, officially is windy as shit. Waking up at my friend Antonio's we we're notified by the local police offica that a tree had been blown down in the front yard. We looked out front at the tree that had been yanked from the ground by mother nature's fury. The roots exposed facing the dusty sky while blocking all traffic.
The climbing out here has been pretty sweet so far.
I feel like after sport climbing a majority of the year, I am finding that bouldering seems to get me more physically worked.
The Park is beautiful. The season has hit, the ground already seeing 3 snow days in the oddest of places; West Texas, El Paso.
After leaving Gunnison, I am becoming attracted to a new area. The rock is here. It's not leaving. The local crew has been really cool, and both the Ranch and town seem to have really reasonable living costs. I could see myself using January-April to spend my energy climbing and working in El Paso.
The climbing in the park has been really cool. I have been applying myself on a few FA's I have found in the park.
The first I completed was a shorter version of the full extension traverse on the Nobody gets out of here alive boulder. the climbing begins with a crouching stand on the right (Southwest side the boulder. A sequence of technical moves that can be conquered with pure powerful bouldering moves, some being Dynamic. 10-13 moves lead to the lip of the Famous Nobody get out problem. That link was witnessed by Andrew Oliver a guide a Hueco. He recommended the name, "Everybody here is Dead" I figured the name was more than suitable. The entire link will then reverse nobody and exit out the back roof on an unamed boulder problem.The link to the roof is somewhere around v7 then reversing nobody stands at V2 and the exiting boulder problem is somewhere around a v5 so ? cool. It's a great way to kill 3 birds with one stone. Hey that's a good name too.
The next completed FA I called "Sistakayla" or "Jonezer Traverse". The route (if standing below See Spot Run ) is directly taking up about 12 to four o'clock in front of you. Maybe more like 1-4 on the visual clock. Anyways...It starts with a a v6/v7 move, traverses to a jug goes into a v5 sequence and then vinishes out the V2 traverse. I would call it a v7 FA. Richy from the climbing gear store was present and I named it after his sister Kayla who had visited this boulder on her first ever day climbing.
Basically, I have been running around Hueco finding something that doesn't have much traffic, and doing it. It fuels me to be creative and figure out how to get up the rock with no beta (info on how to complete the moves). If I can't do the climb my first time on it...The line turns into my project and I will astray from it till I do it. This is basically how the past few days have been. Warming up slightly and give my projects a good burn. I completed another right exit to a previous chalked climb, and the slightest placement of my foot was the key between doing and not doing the climb.
I will be submitting all these climbs not in the book to Wolverine Publishing when an update is needed.
I hope to develop maybe 6 or 7 FA's over the course of now till May.
So now all I have to complete is Everyone here is dead and I will be then able to move onto some cool established routes somewhere in the v10-v11 range.
My schedule:
Today- 12/20 -----Will be in the Tanks
12/20-26 ----------Austin with Richelle, Joe, Matt, Sheila, Virgil and Katie.
26- Jan. 1-5---------Hueco (if I find a job coming back to CA might be unecessary) But I will fly home for a few days.
jan 5-18----------------San Diego (tentative) Sign up for school
Jan- May------------El Paso and beyond.
I've talked to a few friends from back at home, and it was unfortunate that my cell phone was lost. Thanks for calling if you did. What I'm trying to get at is that when your gone for a certain while. Things slowly change. New buildings are erected, peoples situations change, you become closer to the end of this life daily. It makes you think about the things that are really important. Like Emotions, Love, Family, Passions. The decisions and ties we make now are the fabric of life.
I try and think about these things so I don't lose them. Or so I don't think it's the first time I've thought it. I think that's what makes the the fabric stronger, more profound, and powerful.
I tried to remember all the thoughts.
It could just be the wine.
But could it be when you think of me, our thoughts are intertwined.
I look into the night sky, and wonder if you think of me.
At this certain moment see the same thing that I see.
I'm obviously crazy, none of this could be true.
But what happens when I fall asleep and dream the same thing as you?
-Later Skaters.
Scotty
I'll update some pictures as soon as I get some uploaded so stop back or check the next link on Facebook
