Sunday, July 20, 2008

Words from the Coffee Shop

After a severe drought in Lander, Rain has finally trickled, rythmically from the heavens. Spencer and I, busy circuiting routes, felt the sun one moment, and noticed clouds the next. We retired to the community pool, after a long down patrol session. 
The pool is really cool. A huge family gathering spot, they have  
a good sized pool, and some interesting features to boast. At the corner of the pool lies a 15 foot climbing wall, but we were unable to climb it because some sort of bolt was missing. Spencer was a swimmer in college and challenged me to a friendly race. I thought I'd done well, until I found out that he was doing the butterfly stroke, while I was in freestyle. Carlos, Chris, Spencer and myself moved to the showers, washing the earth's dust from our flesh and down the drain. The coffee shop awaits! Where I sit now, looking at shades of grey that move over wispy trees, on an unknown avenue. My imagination has time to span while writing here. The limits of my sight through the coffee shop window expands my vision upon what is possible. For all I know this could be an avenue in San Francisco, and the year could be 1960, and maybe I could just be philosophizing. 
Everything has been going extremely well this trip. I have been sending a lot of climbs, having a jolly time with friends and have made some great decisions about my future. Only one unfortunate happening; which I'll arrive at later. 
As far as decisions, Humboldt County looks like y place of residence for next fall. Since I started climbing, living central to some awesome climbing has been a goal for myself. I've jumbled with trips to Vegas, Utah, Texas, East Coast, Cali , Nor. Cali. Coast, Canada and Spain. All of the above have some of the most amazing climbing I've ever witnessed. Although Vegas and Utah were very appealing, and obviously Spain and the East and it's plusses, Humboldt county seems right. With amazing climbing, diverse people, and located in some of the most aesthetic wilderness environments. I thought Humboldt would be interesting







, and suitable homestead. Humboldt places me in close proximity (4.5 hours) from my beautiful girlfriend Lahna, and the area has central climbing to boast.
  "Lost Rocks" is located just to the south of the Klamath River mouth.  Situated at the base of a beautiful forest filled with redwoods, Sitka Spruce, Douglas Furs, Maples, and Red Alder trees, some of the most creative and exploratory bouldering (plus new routes) lies about an hour away from my house. The climbing if forever changing at lost rocks because the tides vary the levels of the sand. This allows the boulder heights to change constantly.  Where pirates seem like they could appear out of the mist, I predict, solidarity, hands covered in magnesium carbonate, sifting my hands through the wet sand, tyring to send my project. 
On top of all the good bouldering, lies a bundle of quality limestone sport areas. The Trinity Aretes have the highest concentration of hard limestone routes. With 3 5.14's, Trinity Aretes will be my main area of concentration. You can check out some of the footage from the Trinities in "Spray", Brian Solano's film about Northern California Rock Climbing. You can buy this video through chrislindner.com 
The Marble Caves are another area along the Redwood Coast I can't wait to see! I've seen pictures of the area through Chris, and though I've never been there climbing,  the quality of routes is superb, with grades ranging from warm up range to hard. The rock is blue, gold and white. I just heard Ceacilville bluffs as well, another killer sport area to add to my tick list. 
I just found that the Coast has a bunch of sandstone nestled in the woods just above the Paul Bunyan statue. There area has nothing above 12c but is worth a look for undone lines, and also has an abandoned project. 
Above all, I'm siked. Along with established climbing, my search to find new areas will be relentless. I want to be able to show Chris (a nor. cal enthusiast) and  friends when they come to visit, a new Nor. Cal gem. Whether sending hard routes or finding new areas, leaving my mark in Northern California will be a goal for the fall. 
With the trip in Wyoming winding down, I've really only had one unfortunate occurrence. Everything was going fine on this beautiful Saturday afternoon. Waiting for the temperatures to cool down, I decided to go stock up on Bananas, Tortillas, some beans, and rice. I ran across the street, while leaving my groceries unattended in Safeway (Don't hate), and quickly inserted my ATM card in the slot. Withdrawing $60, the ATM wanted to know if I needed any more assistance. 
would you like a balance? 
Sure, why not, I clicked yes. 
Taking the receipt I walked hastily back to the grocery store, forgetting one crucial item, my ATM! I didn't recognize that the card was missing until 2 hours later while  buying a hole repair kit for a hole in my sleeping pad (another unfortunate event, but doesn't bug me in the least). The kid at the climbing store was amazed.
"Holy shit dude, the same thing happened to me when I was in San Diego! "
 I looked through my wallet and still couldn't find it.
"You know what man" the store clerk said. "There's a green bike outside the back door, go ahead, use it."
I raced out the back door hopping on the two wheeler and hauled ass to the bank. Ill-fated, no card was by or in the ATM, at the safeway, and the bank I left it at was closed. 
Remembering when my mom or dad lost a credit card, I knew what to do. I called Wells Fargo (which was fortunately open) in San Diego, and immediately cancelled the card. The balances were straight, and I rode back to the coffee shop still on my phone. The crew got their kicks in seeing me ride up on a random bike. 
"What the hell scooter?!" Carlos exclaimed.
"Your a fricken' crack up dude" Chris followed. 
I had put no effort into explaining, for I was getting my tellers info on the phone. 
"So they'll be no problem if the balances change tomorrow? I just contact you right."The teller could sense the stress in my voice. 
"Yes sir,"he assured me. "Everything will be fine."
I got back to the coffee shop and let the others know what had happened. Good thing I had bought
the majority of the groceries I would need for the remainder of Wyoming. Plus, I had about $14 in my pocket
from the previous grocery run. I laughed the event off, and was happy to return to our camp by the river.
Timeless on my cosmic journey, I realize those afraid of death, dare to experience life. Life is short, so time cannot be defined.
It can either have value, or none at all. We've entered the fourth dimension of time, when the future's imaginary objects,
turn into real life symbolism. Love is the greatest power in life, for it's energy rains eternally. LOVE (don't hate).
I hope you enjoy the pictures enclosed. For those who have heard me talk about my local bouldering area that I have developed (back in San Diego).
Here are a few pictures. The pics portray some of the area's classic problems, both old and in the future. Thanks for the pictures Jason (volunteer).
And expect more pictures from the area once I get them on CD from Jason (volunteer). Plus more from the Vegas Trip are comin'.
Chris Lindner hooked it up with the Trinity Aretes photo of a route called "Spliff." And I found Tim's photo of Ethan on Google. Thanks Tim
for being a master photographer. Plus I think I was there.

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Electric Relaxation







Waking up early is routine from all the surfing I was doing before work back at home. Waking up here in Sinks Canyon, is a little bit different than waking up in San Diego. I begin my day by rising early, and catching a glimpse of the fiery, round, luminous sun peering between the eastern cleavage of Sinks canyon. I open the cab of the truck to reach into my toiletry bag, and grab my travel size apricot face scrub. I look forward to this routine: grabbing my face wash, heading down to the river (which is right next our tent), kneeling down and throwing the ice cold water upon my flesh. I proceed to mask my face with the sand feeling substance, lather, and wash. I then stand up feeling clean, ready to begin the day. My sleeping pants are comforting, keeping me warm while standing out in the ripe morning air. I put on my Prana Sweatshirt, which I can grab easily,conveniently adding one more comforting layer. Breakfast is my favorite meal, buying the most natural cereal I can find, my stomach yearns for a pick me up. I pour dates, almonds and whole grains into my camping bowl,add some blueberry yogurt, banana, and effuse a glass of rice milk or coffee. I like eating large portions, it is not that I crave so much the food that I eat, but climbers sometimes eat so little, that there metabolism doesn't have much to burn. I feel that it is important to maintain a healthy calorie intake, so that your body doesn't acquire strange eating habits. After we all finish our breakfasts, our rest day commences. We had heard rumors of an awesome, natural water slide at the top of sinks canyon. Miah (or Jerimiah) from SLC gave us the beta on how to get there. 
"Right before the bridge park at the lot on the left, the trail will lead about 3 miles up to a series of waterfalls, hit the second one. Splash some water on the right side, where the shoot is, and friken' go dude!" Jerimiah exclaimed enthusiastically
"Alright. We'll check it out." We agreed. 
The hike turned out only to be about a mile and a half. Along the way we stopped at some Eddies and tried to bait some fish with our lure. Spencer managed to catch two small trout, one didn't make it, the other one did; we were sad for the one who didn't live. 
Spencer McCroskey is a good guy. He's medium sized in height, but stands strong like a bull. His brown shaggy hair is childish, and at 26 you can't get much more playful.  There's something sincerely kind about Spencer, it's sort of unexplainable. Maybe, it is his stories about smuggling climbers across the border into Mexico,  an onerous action. Or his tales about in- school detention; where Spence and his buddy got their other mate drunk, coaxing him to jump out the third story window to escape detention. Little did they know, under the bush he jumped into, was a retaining wall that broke the kids femur.  Or maybe it's because he's got a brother named Scotty, which he let's me know from the top of a route he completes, "Hey Scotty, you know I got a brother named Scotty" He yells from the top. 
"Oh yeah, Really?" I reply. 
"Yeah! so you my brotha'." I've never had a brotha' so it felt pretty cool. 
Continuing on the hike we finally reached the slide. About 30 feet in length, the water polished granite acutely angles down and drops into a deep pool of water. Of course, I was the first one to test it out. Sitting at the top of the slide, I reminisced of Wild Rivers or the local San Diego Water park with my friends, cross your arms and just go. Chris counted me down, " Five, Four, Three, Two, One!" I didn't hesitate a bit. Throwing my arms out, I plunged into the unknown, taking no hesitations, just going. Maybe, that unique ride into the water was a materialization of my current experiences; making an ambivalent decision and having a refreshing outcome. Everyone had their turn after myself, and we couldn't get enough. Soon others started to come up and we jovially watched them throw themselves down the water slide. One zany character would always slip and fall, sliding down the areas that looked quite scary and dangerous. 
I sat in the sun, in a natural recliner, soaking in the relaxation that encircled me. "You gonna eat?" Chris and the crew exclaimed behind me. 
"Sure." I didn't know they were eating behind me, but as Chris said that, my stomach was just beginning to growl. Carlos and I had bought Hummus and Avocados the night before, along with Organic Garlic Bread. We all shared what was there and I had what I could, without being greedy. 
The hike really took it out of us, and the heat was starting to come down, making us weary. We began to hike down and took pictures of the beautiful sites that we heretofore visited. Spencer and I trailed behind Chris and Carlos as we made our way down to the car. 
The gate to the lakes above the waterfall (which all seems so interesting now because I visualize the pattern in which naturalness is defined. Looking down from space, I imagine the beauty of geography.  Natures organic rhythm that percolates all over the lands of the earth, in other respects the synchronicity of nature) opened at four o'clock. We followed a pilot car which lead us up a windy dirt road (that was being paved) up to a beautiful body of water. Chris pulled the end of his truck up to the river and we opened up shop. I sat in the front seat typing the beginnings of an Asana climbing article. The rest and the beauty of our day was a fount of inspiration for me write. No fish were biting so we moved on to another part of the lake. I sat in the car with Carlos for a little bit while Spencer and Chris fished below at a pond. I was absorbed by the Nas interview that played on XM radio, which gave insight into the world of Hip Hop music. We all congregated at the car once more and sat a top an cyclonic drain, relaxing on it's sides. I dipped my feet in the water, thought about whom I love, and sang to the others.
 "When the lights go down, in the city" "I want to be theeeerrrree in your city." Letting out a howling "woah", I think the others may have felt me pleas of love and hope, and although my actions may have seemed like a story from a book, I feel like that is what makes life beautiful. Life is a book, write it. 
The sun was starting to fade, and the days heat turned into nights environment. We reached camp just before twilight permitting just enough time to prepare an evening meal. Everyone was tired, and faded from the days hike and excitement. Just like in San Diego I wanted to hit the hay early to gain rest and strength for the next day of climbing. Tomorrow was dawn patrol, dawn patrol is where we get up early and seize best temperatures of the day. I look forward to waking up early and getting my heart racing, I can't think of a better morning activity. Commencing the day out with one of the things I love the most, Rock Climbing. 
As I laid my head upon my pillow, I stared up into space and thought about my life. How things were going to turn out, and what I could do to make the best decisions. As my eyes closed and my mind drifted off into sleep, I would receive an email that would help me settle my chagrin. Making changes is part of maturing, some changes work and some do not, that is just a part of growing up. The process of life is intriguing enough, and the anticipation to see what the future holds in my fruitful age is exciting. Thanks for the advice. 

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Wyoming: International festival and Beyond!







"Hachoo" my nose hails in multiples. After a 12 hour drive from Las Vegas to Lander, we found ourselves nestled, like glorious rock climbing hobbits, in a foreign area surrounded by knee high allergens looking up at me as a potential victim. Lying down next to Chris's Tacoma, we only had a few hours to try and sleep. Rising my tired body, around noon, we sluggishly (which is the correct description) hiked a long two track trail. Clearing the first  hill, the cliff to our right; stared at us. The Dolomite (correction from earlier blog, Wild Iris is a Dolomite rock, not limestone)  climbing at the Iris is Power, mixed with some technique. The climbing lends itself well to the pocket hippy. The area is a historical net supporting a friendly climbing community, hence our attendance @ Lander, WY's 15th annual International Climbing Festival. The folks are friendly here; always a "god bless you" with a sneeze, a belay with a route, and the random fisherman spontaneously engaging in conversation with me; while patiently repairing his line on Main Street. 
As I sit here typing, the lone fisherman just off Main is testing his line out. Winding it up. reeling the bait back up to end of the pole. The fisherman winds hit bait up to recover his catch, as a belayer climber leads his rope from belayer.  From above ground the climber can breath, without distraction floating up the rock. While a fish finds no breath above water, ripped from his enviornment, grasping for a bit of oxygen he just cannot filter. 
The Festival has been full of fun events, like Chris introducing "Spray" (a new dvd by Brian Solano), Slide shows by British top climber Dave Mcleoud, and free pizza and Beer night. (which we could not attend due to climbing well into the night)  Hanging out with O Dub on a regular basis, (the climbing world's Eminem) was way cool. Odub makes satirical rap songs about climbing: "I got ninety-nine problems but this pitch ain't one". I ain't gonna' fool ya', the guys got talent as an MC. 
The sun rises us, as we imagine the sun rising, floating to the cliff my headphones blast unforgettable notions of who I am.  The short reggae rhythm creates a pace for my hike, clearing my mind of distractions before I must focus on my climbing. My food is packed, a healthy bag of natural mix, giving me a greater connection to the natural world and myself. 
Wild Iris is a small Dolomite climbing area just outside the town of Lander Wyoming where the rock is steep, pockety and powerful.  The huge rocks are  huge yogurt covered raisins, with blueberry stains. The first wall of interest was the "Rodeo Wall", housing some of the more difficult climbs along the cliff band, we decided to spend most of our time there. My project "Cow Reggae" is graded @ 13b and is pretty much just what I expected of the Iris: Short, Powerful, and a bit technical. We spent one day down at a wall called "Erratic" which holds "Throwing the Hullahan" a 14a originally climbed by Legendary climber and Lander Local Todd Skinner. (R.I.P.) The walk over, is a pointillism of wild flowers, as beautiful as can be.  The cliff here at Erratic is shadier during High Noon, which protects us from the UV rays and a heat. The weather here sort of reminds me of the temperature back in San Diego.  
Chris has had a few falling clinics to teach at the festival. An entertaining spectacle to watch, the clinics kept us at the Iris till yesterday. After his last clinic, which involved setting a line to the top of a rock climb (anchors), having a spectator jugging up that chord, tying into another chord, unclipping and falling ( or something like that), We decided to go check out this other area called "Sinks Canyon".  Staring up at the "Killer Cave" we were super siked to climb what was a virtual opposite from Wild Iris. A long overhanging cliff with remnants of some of the great climbing Wyoming has to offer. The climbs are long, (all over 70 ft) technical, and littered with pockets and crimps. My project at this cliff is a 3 star, super long 13 called Mr. Majestick. Probably around 15 bolts, the climb is a pump fest,with a double foot jam rest about 1/2 way up the wall. I have tried it twice and all our hands are thrashed. We still have 8 days up here in Lander before we have to take my man Carlos Mason to SLC to catch a flight. Until then...
The cliffs around me offer a place to dig in deep to myself and remember what truly makes me happy. Distractions are all lifted as I focus on the joy of things that are beautiful, positive, and happy (what ever that may be) . I'll say them in my head, one after another, until my mind is filled with positivity. I smile within when the effects of distractions just seem to brush off as if they do not exist. 
Also visit chrislindner.com   and go to "Blog" to see another perspective on an update. 
Highlights from the trip so far: -Chris's movie night at the Lander bar, where you order milk and send it back cause it costs 4 bucks. 
-The guy who slack lines with a bike in his hands.
-Cooking dinner with a Camp Chef stove in our hotel room, and getting kicked out and having to cook in the best alley way in the world.
-Meeting the delinquent youth of Lander, Wyoming.
-Eating Authentic Mexican Food at the Mexi joint in town. 
-Watching my friends get thrashed on Spenceritas. 
-Climbing 
Check out Asanaclimbing.blogspot.com and check out some of my articles comin' up dis' month!

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

In Vegas and Out



Sittin here in the Las Vegas airport is probably more amusing than any other airport in the states. I am entertained by the audio blasting like a foghorn from the baggage claim carousel, which I can testify, distracts the mind quite a lot, hence the amount of misspelled words I've had to correct. Except for the fact I have been waiting for my luggage for an hour, the trip so far (3 hours into) has gone very smoothly,  
"Oh there it is." Found the luggage don't worry. 
For those who don't know my heart carries me to Lander, Wyoming. "Why the hell is Scott going to Wyoming?"" What's there? "Well everyone, Lander has some of the best limestone climbing in the States. So a couple of friends and myself have chosen to go investigate. Chris Lindner, Carlos Mason, Spencer (from Vegas, whom I have not been formally introduced to) are leaving in about 40 minutes to drive from Las Vegas, NV,  overnight, in route to Lander, Wyoming. The drive will include lot's of talking smack and probably a lot of caffeine, despite my efforts to eat all natural lately.  If I remain without caffeine it will help any meditations, and a quest towards zen. 
What is else is new? Well, I am doing my best to pick a community college that suits my needs. San Diego is just a little too familiar, hence I have found 3 community colleges that would provide a great change for me: Cerro Coso located in Mammoth Lakes, CA has some of the best climbing in the world, just around the corner in Bishop. Berkley, has some of the best gyms in California, has some good bouldering, and with weekend spots only about 3 hours away. College of the Redwoods, located in Eureka, Ca (in Humboldt) has some awesome limestone and beach bouldering plus a way cool liberal community. All having attributes that lure me, my mind traces what  I once heard a buddhist say: "no matter how much you stress or worry, all will turn out well". I figure the people that I still love will love me: My family, my girlfriend, and my friends, the ocean, the mountains, the dirt and the sun. Sometimes, I close my eyes when the stress of these decisions weights heavy, and recite hymns of positive thoughts. Without trying to think, words come to my mind instantly, here is what I found on the plane. " There are those who don't believe and those who do believe, those that do believe, know." I opened my eyes, and figured everything would be well, all I must do is be healthy and live.