From Texas to Central Cali.

George and Sylvan for Gentile Photography.

Me leaving the Sport Climbing.

Me warming up at the Columbia JC Boulders. Photo:George Manriquez

Millions of Peaches...Peaches for me.

Going home to the West Coast was quite grounding. I left EP on the 12th of January and flew into Orange County. My biological mother; Richelle picked me up and we drove back to Yerbe Linda to eat pizza and meet her boyfriend Stuart and kick it on the Wii with my two younger bros: Matty and Joeseph. The following day I hung out with Stuart around the house and proceeded to meet my bo mom at her work.

She works in the eduacational department in the nutritional department....I met all her co workers and began a stay back in San Diego for about a week. As usual....back in San Diego was full of hanging with friends and family and visiting the local climbing gym....Vertical Hold.

I went to the gym about three times when I was home and ventured back to El Paso with a bit of a tweak in my left hand ring finger. Damn Plastic.

After returning to Hueco Tanks George Manriquez picked my ass up from the airport and laid down a proposition.

"Would you be down to go back to Cali"?

The job search hadn't been going that well, considering most jobs in EP you have to be Bi-langual to get. Unless you can shake yo' ass:).

The Black light party still went down as planned @ the Ranch and it took me till the day we left to recover. Monday morning I felt great. George wanted to hit the park back up to try and send "Babyface" I gave him my pad and told him "God's speed.. slice".

Back at the office I realized that going to San Diego would only put about an hour more onto the trip. George neared and we sat in the office showing him the bew beta through mapquest. He was down and we decided to spend the night and the next at my casa by the sunny coast of southern california.

The on Monday morning, Carlos, George and myself charged from San Diego to the central California location of Palo Alto to drop off Kern to visit his girlfriend and take care of some of his work for www. albertmasonmeinzer.com.

After dropping off Carlos, George and I ventured a bit South East to Escalon,CA. The land of peaches and Cream.

Georges family: Mother whom I call Ms. Manriquez and their younger daughter Theresa were warm and perfect house hosts to me. I do the dishes and help out as much as possible around the house.

The relentless pursuit to find a job in this economy has been taking up most of my time.

So far I have been interviewed for Mcdonalds and In Shape fitness. Not top of the line; but this is something I need to do.

The other potential opportunity, lies in Yosemtie Valley. I applied in Hueco for the DNC parks service. The potential jobs out in the Valley are resumed by previous employees while those who have not been employed need to stop the half step. Basically, I think what I must do is go to the Valley with George and personally confront the managers. Cross your fingers.

As far as the climbing goes, I have completed what I have came to see.

I shot so high and ith so much thought in the past. I was always about trying to picture what the future would look. Tell me this....When someone tells you of some area, some house, any where you might have not been but are going. How often does your vision match the exact reality of what that place really looks like? Not that f wordin' often?! Right. What I'm gettin' at is their is no way to really predict the outcome of the choices you make. Yeah, the obvious..Cause and effect. (hard work=pay off, bad choices=bad things)But, if you find out how to see into the future....let me know.

I'm just going with the flow now. I have climbing central to me, I have my motivation towards working, and I have a place to stay. Basically, I'm livin' it.

George and I got to check out Jailhouse. I am quite sure it's the best sport climbing in California besides Clark Mountain. I will be spending my time getting my climb on there.

Other spots that are central to me I am planning to visit are "Mickey's beach", Yosemite, Toulemne, Santa Cruz, and other obscure areas.

Since were a bit low on money we have been going to the local Modesto Gym, "Stonhenge" and gettin' our train on.

There is not a ton of hard stuff, but I have been making do to have some good old butt clenchin' fun.

Besides Jailhouse, George, Tanya, and myself visited the local Sonora Community College "Columbia JC" which is one of the more...shall I say interesting? bouldering areas I've been to. Nestled in this community college is hiking trail leading to a small collection of limestone deposits. The problems go from V0-v10 and provide for some fun bouldering.

With a good bouldering area, and some of the best hard sport climbing in California...I'm happy.

As soon as the loot starts rollin' in I plan to visit the Valley (if no job is secured) frequently and get my taste of climbing in the Valley for a summer. I am definately interested in getting more of a traditional background and doing some exciting and fun cross training in the valley. I am really motivated to climb my first 14a by the end of my twenty fourth year of my life.

Having this central location serves somewhat as a balance. A short stint to so cal, an hour from the city of San Fran. I'm finding myself in a good place. I want to work, and get aquainted with the surrounding areas. I'm trying not to think in the future. More so, keep my head straight and stay directed in the now. Like a man I met intersted in Buddhist philosophy, "everything just seems to work itself out."

OH yeah....I almost forgot. Geoerge's father Vince, hooked us up with an not so frequenct gig doing photography Gentiles Photography shooting sports potraits for little league to high school teams. The gigs are cool and pay well but for right now...I need money. Besides...it's a super cool opportunity and I am more than happy with Vince's effort to help both George and myself. I like who I work with. Keep checkin!
XO Everyone!

-Scooter

Just a check up

The long lost child....can you see the resemblence?
From left top:Virgil, Gilbert, Katie, Scotty.....Second Row:JOe Gram, Matt, Mom, Uncle Tony..Bottom Row is Grandpa Rich.
The ranch during the Cryptochild Hangboard contest.
The beautfiul Vanessa Compton bartends Saki while Jason and I catch up a little bit.

Since the Cryptochild's hangboard pull up contest, I visited my biological family in Austin. Richelle Gutierrez (my bio mom) picked me up with my two half brothers: matty and Joe. We drove to a small town called Bastrop. Since I chose to find my long lost family; I feel that it is my responsibility to uphold frequent contact. Bastrop, was really cool. The area is very nice. I met my Granpa Rich. (richelle's father) I met my half sister Katie (she is 18) and I met Virgil (papa) who I had not seen since I was born on May 19th, 1986 (fuckin' crazy eh?) Virgil was the man to provide insurance when I was born. My first birth certificate reads:

Scott Fontenot

When given up for adoption, I had another birth certificate made:

Scott Glasberg

You ever met a motha ucka with two families and two identities.....Naw? You know me.....Pretty Coooool.

I also met Tony Turano, My uncle. Tony is real similar to me....except I don't think he likes to party like I do. :) He does like a lot of active things and rides bikes a lot. He lives in Portland Oregon....I really like Tony a lot. Ill be up there in April Region TonY!!!!!!

Here I am....Sittin' at the air puerto in El Paso. My buddy George Manriquez dropped me off this morning.

I'll be flying into Orange County where my biological mom will pick me up. I am looking forward to meeting her boyfriend Stuart; whom I've never met before. I'll hang out up in Yerba Linda for the night with my bros and mom and Stu.

The next day Richelle will drive me down to San Diego. I'm looking forward to a week back at home where I'll get to see my family, and friends. I am looking forward to getting out in the water, catch some waves, catch some rays, and hang with my close friends.

I need to find a job when I get back to EP because I am finally starting to run out of money. Sweet!!!! No JK.

While I'm writing this I am sitting in the Pheonix AeroPuerto. It's a nice airport. Sorta big. Pretty excited to get home.

I am trying to plan a party but I have to talk to my father, or find some one's place to throw it at. If you have any suggestions....Send me a shout on FACEBOOK.

While at home. I plan to hang out with friends, catch up with my family, pet my cat, enjoy the warm weather, and surf my brains out. I'll be training on plastic when back at the local Vertical Hold.

I am really proud of one of my best friends, I won't say any names; but I am excited to see her life becoming much more clear to her than over the summer. I talked to her the other night....her voice sounded more like a woman, more mature. I'm really proud and can't wait to see what's new.

As far as my boys....Carlos is headed out of town, I definately wanna to link up With Jack

"WHAT UP JACK!" Ben, Thomas, Berry, Taylor, Nate dog. if I left ya out you know I luv ya!

Carlos and I are going to meet up on the nineteenth. His only day in town. Though he does fly in that morning and leave that night...Busy boy....but somebody's gotta buy scotty a mansion. JK kern ;). PK, an old climbing friend wants to meet up too and have some beers. PK is Michelle K's Brother and climbed with me when I first started climbing about 6 years ago. He motivated me to have forearms that big...hahah JK.

The Ranch and Park has been really excellent. Working on the ranch I have acquired a really great set of friends. A shout to George, Mogley, Charles, Brian, Frank, Dave, Le Sean, Marc, and Neal. Oh yeah, Yuri, Val, Al. It's sorta like a big family. The coolest thing is that everyone climbs. One of the hardest things about my climbing life has been the lack of friends I have that climb. I think throughout High School and College, I brought only 2 or maybe 3 friends that I had known from my local area---climbing. I'm not saying I wished I had, But it is NICE to build with peers your age, and bond through a productive activity like Climbing.

I am getting along with everyone at the ranch and am looking forward to the rest of the time there.

Also big shout out to Austin Williams for coming through to the Tanks on his way to Florida. You shouldn't have bailed that mornin' Austin I got in Supa' quick bruddah. Anyways see you soon bro...was good having some local company out in the 'armpit of Texas.'

Jason, Abby, Joe, Collette, are also out not to mention the spring break kids that have been riding through.

I really enjoy working at the ranch. I am in charge of all the parties. We'll be hosting them at the house every saturday. So get yo O face on ..OH OH OH.

I think one of the coolest things that is exciting me is having built quite good relations with George, Mogley, and Le Sean. Instead of leaving a climbing area alone. We all plan to caravan to Bishop and then Yosemite Valley. This will be the first time....out of all my travelin' (which is a shit load of traveling) Am I spending the season with friends going from one world class destination to another. This will be my first summer i the valley. I got one goal. Do Midnight Lightning! And climb some valley V10's or some shiat. I just talked to my buddy Geiss out in Vegas. I am wanting to take a trip out there too....A ton of new Potosi Routes are going up and they are world class. The link I will be posting in a few days to his VEGAS CLIMBING website. Thanks Uncle G!

So here's a schedule of my upcoming activities.

Jan 12th- 20th......................San Diego (friends, family, job search, surf, skate, climb)

Jan 2oth- 29th......................Chrissy comes tto El Paso his first time in Eons.

Feb-March 4.........................Work in EP, partake and help for Rock Rodeo

March 4th...........................Head west with the Caravan to BIshop

April- Summer........................WOrk in the Yosemite Valley at a Job George can get (pizza) night bouldering ...Maybe save up for trip to Austin in the August Region to go DWS.

I'm trying to think If I left anything out....? I don't know...anways.....thanks for checkin' in....See ya'll soon.

A West Texas town in El Paso

So.....

Right now El Paso seems to be the windy city.  Today, officially is windy as shit. Waking up at my friend Antonio's we we're notified by the local police offica that a tree had been blown down in the front yard. We looked out front at the tree that had been yanked from the ground by mother nature's fury. The roots exposed facing the dusty sky while blocking all traffic. 

The climbing out here has been pretty sweet so far. 

I feel like after sport climbing a majority of the year, I am finding that bouldering seems to get me more physically worked. 

The Park is beautiful. The season has hit, the ground already seeing 3 snow days in the oddest of places; West Texas, El Paso. 

After leaving Gunnison, I am becoming attracted to a new area. The rock is here. It's not leaving. The local crew has been really cool, and both the Ranch and town seem to have really reasonable living costs. I could see myself using January-April to spend my energy climbing and working in El Paso. 

The climbing in the park has been really cool. I have been applying myself on a few FA's I have found in the park. 

The first I completed was a shorter version of the full extension traverse on the Nobody gets out of here alive boulder. the climbing begins with a crouching stand on the right (Southwest side the boulder.  A sequence of technical moves that can be conquered with pure powerful bouldering moves, some being Dynamic. 10-13 moves lead to the lip  of the Famous Nobody get out  problem. That link was witnessed by Andrew Oliver a guide a Hueco. He recommended the name, "Everybody here is Dead" I figured the name was more than suitable. The entire link will then reverse nobody and exit out the back roof  on an unamed boulder problem.The link to the roof is somewhere around v7 then reversing nobody stands at V2 and the exiting boulder problem is somewhere around a v5 so ? cool. It's a great way to kill 3 birds with one stone. Hey that's a good name too. 

The next completed FA I called "Sistakayla" or "Jonezer Traverse".   The route (if standing below See Spot Run ) is directly taking up about 12 to four o'clock in front of you. Maybe more like 1-4 on the visual clock. Anyways...It starts with a a v6/v7 move, traverses to a jug goes into a v5 sequence and then vinishes out the V2 traverse. I would call it a v7 FA.  Richy from the climbing gear store was present and I named it after his sister Kayla who had visited this boulder on her first ever day climbing. 

Basically, I have been running around Hueco finding something that doesn't have much traffic, and doing it. It fuels me to be creative and figure out how to get up the rock with no beta (info on how to complete the moves). If I can't do the climb my first time on it...The line turns into my project and I will astray from it till I do it. This is basically how the past few days have been. Warming up slightly and give my projects a good burn. I completed another right exit to a previous chalked climb, and the slightest placement of my foot was the key between doing and not doing the climb. 

I will be submitting all these climbs not in the book to Wolverine Publishing when an update is needed. 

I hope to develop maybe 6 or 7 FA's over the course of now till May. 

So now all I have to complete is Everyone here is dead and I will be then able to move onto some cool established routes somewhere in the v10-v11 range. 

My schedule:

Today- 12/20  -----Will be in the Tanks

12/20-26 ----------Austin with Richelle, Joe, Matt, Sheila, Virgil and Katie. 

26- Jan. 1-5---------Hueco     (if I find a job coming back to CA might be unecessary) But I will fly home for a few days. 

jan 5-18----------------San Diego (tentative) Sign up for school

Jan- May------------El Paso and beyond. 

I've talked to a few friends from back at home, and it was unfortunate that my cell phone was lost. Thanks for calling if you did. What I'm trying to get at is that when your gone for a certain while. Things slowly change. New buildings are erected, peoples situations change, you become closer to the end of this life daily. It makes you think about the things that are really important. Like Emotions, Love, Family, Passions. The decisions and ties we make now are the fabric of life. 

I try and think about these things so I don't lose them. Or so I don't think it's the first time I've thought it. I think that's what makes the the fabric stronger, more profound, and powerful. 

I tried to remember all the thoughts.

It could just be the wine. 

But could it be when you think of me, our thoughts are intertwined. 

I look into the night sky, and wonder if you think of me. 

At this certain moment see the same thing that I see. 

I'm obviously crazy, none of this could be true.

But what happens when I fall asleep and dream the same thing as you?

-Later Skaters. 

Scotty

I'll update some pictures as soon as I get some uploaded so stop back or check the next link on Facebook

 

Can you please Fill me in?

Me filming my Friend George from Hueco as he takes a picture. Stay tooned for Vid. comin' soon. 
George about to make the Dyno on "T-Bone Shuffle" 
Chris Lindner at Skyline Boulders, Crestebutte, CO. 

THis month's issue of Deadpoint features C.L. with me belaying...(see) on his Undone Project on the 'Pebble Boulder' near  "area 51" in West Virginia.  The routes sick yo....Like v13 boulder problem or v12 or somethin to 13 d climbing prob....then another v12 huck for the jug. Prob. WV's first 15a or 14 d. 

So....It's been a while. 

How are you? How ya' been? 

Good, Good. I am glad. 

Now let me catch up with you. Sinch March the last time we talked. 

After Baja I chose to chill back in San Diego, Ca for about a month. Chris LIndner and I would meet back in one month to start the venture X-country to West Virginia.  

When at home I hung out with friends. Did some surfing. But mostly partied a lot. Sorry....a boy's gotta party sometimes before he starts settlin' down. Ain't that true? True. 

So after having a great time at the beach, and party with all mon amies. I took off for Las Vegas to Pick up C.L. at his house that him and his girlfriend Jodi we're in the midst of selling. 

So we started drivin. 48 hours, bud. Straight up and down no sleep, RPM's rotating on the pavement like the thoughts that rotated in my head about my lost love. I am a good co-pilot for the sleep deprived chris; who's total loss of sleep totaled 72 hours due to packing the day and all night the night before I arrived in Vegas. I keep a brotha' entertained. 

Anyways so the W. VIrginia Trip went down....Cool.  Lot's of routes, some bouldering tours from DPM's M. Stark, New River Rendevous partying and the most hectic photo shoot I have ever taken place in. My legs were chaffed from sittin' in my harness for some damn long I had to coat them in Neosporin with pain relief. All in all it paid off. Check this month's issue at:

Dead Point Magazine's Website. In the New RIver section you'll see me with the classic belay prop for Chrissy. WURD!

So I had been traveling for a while at that point. My whole year...Since September! 9 or ten months exploring the rock climbing of N. America. I needed some time off. I went home to San Diego On June 1st. 

For about 3 months  I basically lost all motivation to crank.  Although I was working at the climbing gym; my time outside of the gym was not spent training for climbing but more how to hang in college during a drinking contest.  My strength dwindled as my motivation grew to become the man that I used to be. Obsessed with climbing and determined to be physically and mentally at my peak. 

San Diego was amazing. I did some very close relationships with some new people who mean a lot to me. Faye, Sara, Matty, Rocky, Mary and countless others I got to see after being absent for over a year.  

During this time back home I also was re-united with my Birth Parents. 

In West Virginia I mad a pact with myself to find my birthparents. Eventually, while back in San Diego. With a little work each day, I finally got in contact with my Cousin Kim who relayed the message both to my Biolgoical MOther "RIchelle Turano" or Gutirrez (turano was the original name I found) and Larry Mullock. My father lived in Long Beach as a Police Officer..

Remarried and with Chrildren Larry was pleased to hang with me, but unfortunately cannot introduce me to my younger half siblings because he feels they are too young. 

Richelle was a bit more open to the idea and was a very spiritually enlightening experience. 

I told my lover when I was with her that I wanted her help to find my biological parents. When she disappeared and told me she 'didn't love me anymore' my quest to find where I came from became ever more passionate. 

I now have a realtionship with both my Birth Parents, my half Brother Matty, and Joe, My grandma Sheila, Aunt Sandy and Cousin Kimmy. In december, I'll be getting picked up in El Paso and heading to Austin to meet Virgil my grandpa, my half sister, and who ever else may come. I am pretty psyched for that and getting to see some of the climbing in Austin. I also met my Great Grandfather who is a totally rad old dude. 

A few friends were with me on this amazing journey to meet my relatives. For those who were there....you know who you are....I'll hold that close to my heart forever. thanks Faybz. 

Don't get it twisted. There will never be any replacement for Bob and Meredith...EVer. But, It was really nice to finally found where I came from. 

After staying in San Diego for a while. The partying life became more than I could handle. 

C.L. Saw I was slipping so he called me up and told me he wanted to help me get back on my freet. Get crankin' again, and there was an open spot on his couch  till I got on my feet and got my own place. I drove out to Gunnison, Colorado to do just this. We climbed almost everyday, training at Western College gym and spending the weekends at the Fortress of Solitude by Rifle Mtn. Park. 

I finally found a job as a breakfast attendant and laundry man at the Local 'Affordable Inn'. The job sucked. But it paid the billz and was full time. 6 am to 1 or 3 p.m. So either I was off early or off with just enough time to climb outside or get a solid night in at the gym. 

I started getting some friends around the area that liked to Climb and hang out so that was nice. They even took me boardin.' Thanks JOsh, Mike and JOel, and dudley for the killer time! It was bad ass. The day I was going to get my apartment I was laid off my job because of the lack of work and customers that were coming through. 

So....I was sorta unpyched on staying in some cold ass ground for the winter so I decided to use the two paychecks I had earned to head down to Hueco Tanks Historic Site to enjoy some of the best bouldering in the nation. 

So that's where I'm at now. I'm actually like 5 minutes from Juarez right now coping some internet service  in a little mexican restaraunt.   I am working at the Hueco Rock Ranch in exchange for free camping. The climbing is really good and I am getting back into good shape. Right now we're all preparing for TanksGiving, at the Rock Ranch. 

Happy Holidays. 

While in Hueco I'm hoping to put a V11 under my belt. That's my real goal . I have a few in mind but I think I am gonna go for 'Dark Age' the sit start to 'See Spot Run' Wish me luck. 

LOVE YOU!

March To Baja Video.

Thanks to a new Computer Hard Drive you can now....

Check out the Baja Trip!

In March 2009, Kevin Worrall, La Jolla Dave, Sean Shannon, Chris Lindner and Scotty Glasberg ventured deep down into Baja to explore what we had heard to be Baja's next best. The trip takes some interesting turn of events. Winding down and Back up the Peninsula, we encountered everything from Rabid Skunk Bites to Cheeba Herding. Come along for the ride. And don't forget your cerveza. 

Birth Daze

The whisp from the hair of a beautiful woman.
The imagination that lies deep within a human.
The smell that intrigues me and takes over reality,
those who are bored virtue punctuality.
Argue a point whether or not it has valadity (validity)
Emotion rules life, and if you don't let it out. Yourself is left in, and never can shout.
Your eyes are the portal, when I look at your mind, release inhibitions that keep your world in a bind.
There is no such word as perfect and stillness, especially when people evade to the killings. To believe in stature, is a posture of the sober. Let my forceful angry winds of nature blow you over.
Your hair is so long, I can't see your eyes. A tactic of mine to remain un-hypnotized.
Do you judge me? Do you fine me attractive or bait? Do you know that love can turn into hate? Did you know what I have gone through before? And if you did know would it settle the score? Would you praise me or paste me in latest magazines, with eyes glued and minds used by all the young teens. With everyone wanting to be just like me. The true heroes are those that we rarely see.
With colors that bleed to be seen psychedelically with patterns so deep you can't really be, seeing what you are really trying to see, the patterns of life are inside of me. So touch me and squeeze me, and do you love me too. Grabbing your hair while my skins glued to you. Toe Curling, minds whirling, with candle flicker. The time clock, as our minds watch the see-sawing wicker. A metronome, a heartbeat, a pulsating heart, what I find in the end's full-circle from the start.
As I take my head up from the world I was once in. I look up to a picture to let out a grin. To realize that sight is to let color in, to your eyes and realize that you must begin. On an awesome journey that starts every second. That these beautiful thoughts that have always beckond, that life is changing at every second, but memories and myself remain same so I reckon.


LOVE YOU EVERYONE. Thanks for readin'.

-May 19, 2008 23 Yrs. @ Cathedral Coffee in Fayeteville, WV.

New River Rendevous:

Here's me at Seneca rocks for the Cinco De Mayo Party.
Here's Justin, JD, Leo and I hiking up to the top of Seneca. Courtesy of Friksn Climbing.
Me at Diogi's Mexican Food on Cinco De Mayo.
Me doing a roof extension at the "Junkyard Roof" I felt like this was a rad problem, because the rest day let me visit 3 areas in one day.

Proceeding Baja, I decided to kick it at home for a bit to reminice with my friends and others I had wanted to see. My prospects for the near future were to make an excursion to the NE of the United States, and visit the Renown Climbing of the New River Gorge. The New is nestled anywhere. The cliffs of sandstone scatter amongst the lush, green environment. From fast flowing rivers that roll like thunder when the rain starts poaring, and provide no shielding from the elements. To calm, riverside overhangs that tend to the rainy days you may incur.
Chris and Jimmy from Vegas, met me in San Diego after a day of packing up Chris Lindner's house in Vegas. Chris prepared a U-Haul for a move from Vegas to traveling and exploring for a bit with his girlfriend in Various Areas. I woke, met Chris and Jimmy at the U-haul storage and we rode off east for an adventure that would take over 40 hours to reach our destination.
Jimmy had to be dropped off in Vegas to his house next to Chris's old place. See Jimmy was just along for 1/9 of the trip, for he was staying in Vegas with his wife.
Chris Packed up any belongings for the trip and left a house which he called "Home" for the last two years.
That night Chris and I cut down a 40 minute hike into a 25 minute jaunt up to a newly established climbing area near Mesquite, NV called the "Ballin' Alley". We had an obligation to clean the draws at the cliff, so we'd have enough for our month long adventure.
The route we were to take was the 15 freeway to the 17 headed east all the way to 64 somewhere around the east coast.
Only about 4 out of our 40 hour sprints did we get some shut eye. The first right outside of Denver in approach to Kansas, and the next somewhere in Illinois. On several occasions Chris and I found are selves dilluisional to a certain extent.
We drove and drove along the lands, in Seneca Rocks where we would land. Where is Syneca Rocks you ask?
Around the SE portion of the state of West Virginia lies a Quartzite Monlithic Spires. The town below is incredibly small where a general store called "Yokum's" and "Gendarme" climbing holds it down. Getting there we greeted new mates, the Legendary Captain Kurt Smith and his wife Alaina. The Friksn Krew was out there so we all decided to take a hike to the top of Syneca after a beer. That night the 4th annual Cinco de Mayo party went down. Lot's of campers and people from all over came out to have fun, drink, watch C.L's slideshow, and well... party. The night went on late, and Chris and I crashed out after a nice freestyle and laugh session in the Friksn party van. As the rain poured, my thoughts seemed to seep off the balcony's horizonatal boards, down to the ground below. We woke up on the second story balcony of the Ac's and Diane's balcony. I then sluggishly walked in the kitchen to claim my pancakes to ease the pain from the evening's events, that still seemed to linger heavily between my eyes and head.
That day we took off to Fayetville, WV to set up camp in Kurt Smith's backyard. The backyard we've come to know as "Camp de Kurt." For a monthly fee of dishes at night and garden building we earn our right to be in such fine quarters. Besides the 10:50 p.m. or the 1 a.m. bedtime call; between wake-up time and then, the house and town is ours for what we need. The rule is just to keep everything more clean than you found it. So besides climbing my ass off, I'll come home with some more character.
The climbing has been cool. There's been alot of rain but we've managed to climb at some cool areas. The colleseum tends to the rainy days, where I'm projecting a stiff 5.13 b called "Pod". Since I hadn't climbed for about 1 month I'm trying to redpoint a cool route and to climb more fitness oriented routes to get back to where I was in the Fall. Chris put some draws up on a really cool route called "Still life" which involves a henious crux at the finishing headwall.
Matt Stark, from Dead Point Magazine took us bouldering on one occasion, which turned out to be more of a rain scramble through high river rushings and moss tree scramblin'. On top of it, at the end, we ended up losing Matt's dog. The day turned out to be a blessing in disguise. We walked over a railroad track bridge, back to the cars and went on with our Cinco De Mayo festivities.
The area is pretty cool. Everyone is preparing for the New River Rendevous and I'm trying to help out as much as I can.
Porter, one of the area locals climbed with us one day at an area dubbed, "The Endless Wall". The wall can be endless if you want it to, you just have to think of it that way.
The walls drift down a gorge filled with trees that bloom from the water's gift.
And where the cliffs reside we chose to climb.
Hardened Sandstone was divine, rolling like the water below.
Chris decided to hang some bolts on a project. The line was typical of projects here, stellar climbing, up to a stopper crux. This project, like "Still Life" at the Colleseum both offered their asthetic glory, which apparently offers the most killer routes.
I hadn't climbed for a while so I ran some laps on some moderate climbs with well-versed climber, Porter Jerrard. We hiked out, stopped by a quick south east climber's coalition meeting, and then went home to eat and watch the playoffs.
Mikey Williams, a Fayetville local and current strong hardman, picked us up from the local climbing shop to take us to an area named "The Meadow". We rode in "Roadkill's" van with an upcoming aspiring photographer named Dan Heller. Dan's got some o.k. photos, but his fitness and lack of climbing experience does complicate obtaining his goal.
The Meadow's a long cliff of concrete sandstone on the other side of a gravel road adjacent to a narrow river tributary. The climbing is steep, continuous and very exciting. Chris was interested in a bolted project and worked on this for our first day cuplet. I really wanted to work on my fitness to do "P.O.D." so found myself working a fitness oriented 13 a. Not climbing much, nor training for a month since St.George, I found myself falling at the last bolt before the top on this full length beauty sprint. That's fine with me though, I am happy to be climbing at the level that I am without training or climbing, not to mention hanging with friends a lot.
Now that the Rendevous is getting started we headed out one more day out to "Area 51" with a caravan of people.
The New River Rendevous is located at Burnwood Camprgound on the 19 freeway before the sweeping bridge that leaps over the gushing New River.
Yesterday morning I was awaken by a militaristic call from Chris Lindner. Rushing out to the car to meet up with San Diego Native, climber, and Evolve Representative Buck Branson, and Chris; my pants were not even saftened. I soon found myself at Kenny Parker's newly erected abode. The land out here is really cheap. People are living in well sized quarters on 300+ to 700- dollar mortages. This is the place to move if you have a sweet heart and want nothing else to do but climb on some of the best rock in the country, kayak, and hang with some of the most down to earth friendly people on earth.
Back to my story, Kenny built a californiaesque 3 or 4 story crib, that really struck me as very honorable. Kenny's kind face implied that my thoughts had been well sent.
The three of us San Diegans loaded up a trailer with climbing walls for the climbing competition at Burnwood campground and took off back to the house.
Moses, Metolious's representative from Bend, Oregon greeted us there with a bundle of energy and a sharp smile as he peered from behind his spectacles.
Kurt had a project.
Using the dirt from the a house that the neighbor had bought and then burned down publically, our assignment was to fill a perimeter of railroad ties with soilable dirt. Kurt wanted to grow some Rhododendron for his wife Alaina.
So for the next few hours, this is what we did. Shoveled, loaded, and dumped dirt back and forth, back and forth.
We soon completed are task for what it was worth and this night was the night of the dealer camp. We had a party at Kurt's, met some great folks, and actually made friends with a really nice young folks. More on that later.
The rest of the weekend was spent getting stuff ready for the New River Rendevous. We have gathered a ton of great friends out here. It is really one of the only places I have went, and felt totally at home and comfortable. It's one of those trips where I don't want to go home; it could be just easier to stay or move somewhere out here.
Kurt Smith (the general) gave me instructions to do the art for the background of the band. This made yesterday quite leisure and fun. I figured that if I wasn't thinking about time, finishing the project; it is something that I love to do.
More and more people started coming in. Everything from Lynn Hill to grungy dirt bags stealing gear; the NRR 09' brought in some interesting folks. I had a fun time meeting new people and creating new relations. I got to ketchup with some folks from Petzl, Friksn, Metolious, Evolve, So Ill and Cryptochild, and OdUb. You know, the regular traveling sponsors.
I got my groove on on the dance floor, and quickly got a call to head to this house party. Dario, from the Red took as to a real fatty cabin. 20 rooms and 1 jacuzzi. Anyone down?
So here we are all sitting around the couch. With the games starting, eyes are shutting. It's been a long couple weeks, and we're all pretty cashed. The weather just cooled and this week will be dedicated to spending as much time climbing as we can.
Next week, we leave for Greenbourough, NC where I will hopefully meet up with my friend Mackenzie whom I met over the weekend. The plan is to meet up with our friend Tyson (from San Diego) and go check out the world class bouldering in Boone, NC. Locals Pat and Jessa will be there to guide us on our adventure.
From there, we'll drive into Colorado, to attend a wedding for my friend Eric Harrison or EZ. EZ took me out climbing my first time at the Tramway, CA. If I'm not able to attend whole wedding, I'll either go ketchup with friends in boulder, or visiit other's in Fort Collins. Besides that, I'll be home for the month of June, and have some interesting prospects that I'm willing to grab for my future.
I'll end the update with some words:
The trip was long, as my mind was the same, thoughts resided which I couldn't tame. I couldn't beleive it I needed what I had not. Not realizing the present is all that I've got. A call, a note, but nothing felt genuine, my body was idle but filled with adrenaline. For what I was asking, there was no more rush, no anticipation, no blush, and no one to touch. I didn't realize what Full Circle had meant, that to make something new, you first have to invent. With the next turn, or corner I cross, is a step into leisure or life's albatross. Please take a chance, to look deep in my eyes; I'll tell you myself, no lies, no disguise.