Monday, June 30, 2008

No matter the destination, climbing can be your vehicle












Getting home was a great occasion. Out of the Vegas heat, the cool breeze of the pacific soothed my mind. I was soon to take up a job at the Local climbing gym, Vertical Hold. Getting in the water was also a priority, besides climbing I enjoy swimming through the ocean with either a foam floater to perform tricks with, or a fiberglass machine gun. My friend Austin and I decided to rekindle what ever we were kindling and head up to the mountains the first week I had returned. Austin is a great character, with a huge heart and an open mind, he's the perfect climbing partner: patient, and always wanting to learn. Austin is back for the summer from Oahu, HI; where he lives full time as a marine Biology student. The Census was to go to tramway, where granite explosions sit embedded in the beaches of the mountains. We hiked far and wide to find a campsite where we could not be bothered. The first day of rock climbing went great. Back at camp, we had a bunch of dinner that waited back for us. We dubbed 'hidden', for no one had seen us hike to our tuck away. Refrigerated packs of hearty Indian Cuisine was handed down from my mother, Meredith's Indian Fiance: Kanen. We wrapped the contents into these bomber Indian tortillas, and afterwards wrapped ourselves in sleeping tortillas and watched the heavens rotate. 
I used Jason Kehl's Tramway summer pass. "Bawlin!" Which was great, because the cost to ride the rotating gondola is 21 bucks. J's pass enabled me to get in for free for our 3 day adventure that your about to find out turned short. 
On the second day, after passing godly first ascent potential about a 1/2 miles walk from the beach area, we decided to go gander at stuff along the main trail. BAD CHOICE! The ranger whom I acquired an overnight pass from happened to be strolling up the trail too! Just my luck! 
"Hello!" I said in a boisterous friendly way, 
"Can I see your pass", she said with in an authoritarian speech. 
She proceeded to look @ the pass she had issued Austin and I the day before. This pass allowed us to camp at Round Valley Campground, a campground located about 2 miles up the trail. She asked us what site we had camped the previous night. Shit! I knew I was fucked man, "something like 16" I replied. 
Sure enough the campsites didn't end up being marked. JUST MY LUCK! "Illegal Camping!" She could tell that we had not been at a camp
site and to immediately reveal where we had camped and to retrieve our stuff. In retrospect maybe lying about the location would have been better because I ended up carrying food, clothing, and camping equipment 2 miles on my poor back, alone. (I'll admit it was a good workout at such high elevation.)I couldn't believe the penalty she issued, I mean, the campsite was totally hidden. I used tactics from my influences, like "leave no trace" no trash was to be found. The " "overseer" (whose name seem to fit while trudging through the barren morning sun with 100 pound pack on my back), wrote Austin and I violations for Illegal camping. We had issued a non-freedom pass for being free. It was an absurdity to authority and a tactic for revenue. My climbing trip to tram was sabotaged, by a power hungry forestry service member. My love of climbing tells me it was a good thing for the climbing community. A 60 percent increase this year in the amount of bouldering traffic at tramway, let me know it was just my luck. 
We had no real intention of surrender. This was my last weekend before I started my occupation at the rock climbing gym, So we headed to the nearby Black Mountain to continue our bliss. The first night experienced sorbet skies trickling it's sugarless rays on our dirty-clean bodies. Another bomber meal awaited us: of cous cous and garbanzo beans. The meal followed a quick random meeting with one of the first climbers I had ever met: Greg, a.k.a. Talus foot. Greg's a current vagabond and we burned out on some crimpers on the back of the bone head boulder, while the sun burned below the horizon of the pacific rim. We reminisced of the time his friend almost killed us while fishtailing with modern momentum down Buttermilk Road; good times. The trip to black mountain was well worth it. Along with getting some real callous, I sent some cool rock climbs: like Can Opener and Tour De France, all very quickly and easily. I got on a few double digit boulder problems and was doing really well figuring out the moves quite quickly, confirming that my strength and mind was ready for the upcoming trip to Wyoming
After our hands were thrashed and our muscles unable to contract, San Diego and the fresh ocean water awaited me. My girlfriend Lahna, and a new job stood there waiting. I'd been really siked on some sport routes in the gym, plus a full on campus board which I had not trained on in years on a regular basis. I am still hooked on boba and am definitely convinced that Tapioca balls have strange sending powers. Training at the gym has been going very well for me. I have sent almost every sport route, including my last project which I fell off the last move of yesterday. SO RAD! My friend Nate Claycolb and old school snowboarder, Jack Howard have proved to be my dedicated training partners, getting in 5-7 hours of training every other day. Besides the gym I have been spending my time training almost as hard as I was in Vegas. I wake up at six in the morning every day, go surfing, go belay kids at the gym, and every other day try to spend at least 7 hours climbing sport, and just recently started Boot Camp Training modified . I really enjoy going to work every morning, seeing the same kids progress on routes they couldn't do or didn't know how to at the beginning of the week is very fulfilling. Climbing is so unique and beautiful. Besides submerging myself in the mother nature's bathtub every morning, staying active from morning till bed, I have also taken a new interest in further developing my local bouldering area, "Los Penesquitos Canyon Reserve" About two years ago I remembered an old time rest stop that my father and I would relax at while mountain biking. I remembered water, and water polished granite features very different than anything in San Diego. The Rock is reminiscent of the Jupiter Boulders in Palm Springs area. Projects keep on popping up after being down there well over 30 times. It just reminds me that the potential of a single area is almost limitless, reminding me to climb all that's down here could take a few years. Rome wasn't built in a day you know. Although I would like to keep working on my local development, life is calling my name, and I will be making some changes down the road. For one I will be changing schools to an area more central to climbing, and two this means moving out of San Diego. I feel like I have a lot of things that I love here, but change is good, and I hear it calling me. Climbing is my vehicle for life, and some of the most peaceful experiences I have ever felt are experienced through the climbing medium. Some of the most beautiful and peaceful experiences are experienced when climbing alone. 

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Winding down and at home



My trip is unfortunately winding down. It seems like how ever long you think your trip should be, you always want it to be longer. We had beautiful days at Mt. Charleston (as you can see in the picture). I met new people like Joe Brooks, and Dave Banks, and other cool climbers from Singapore, Spy and Ling. The trip was fruitful, involving a lot of good climbing, training, and not the best, but some O.K. rest days. Although I understand people have to work, I like to do things on my rest days: hike, play, that kind of thing, . One idea I have learned from this trip it is to be happy with what has occured. You cannot live your life wishing something would have happened, it's just too stressful. Be grateful for what you have at that moment, Thinking positive for the future, and something better will come. 
I finished my book on meditation, gathered a lot of information on cooking recipes and had a fun trip at the cliff. It was really good to see Chris and Jodi, and get this blog started on my not so active rest days. The trip gave me a lot of time to work on Asana Climbing Articles, a great outlet for my writing. I also had my first Traditional Climbing experience in Red Rocks. Chris and I hiked out to Juniper Canyon and got pretty hardcore. Climbing a total of 1,200 feet. We did 11 pitches of some really classic Trad climbing. The first one, we did in the dark was a 5 pitch 10c, called Night Crawler (ironically the conditions fitting the name). We slept on the edge of a cliff propped up against our empty packs. Right away some crazy looking animal that looked like a squirrel with a huge black and white tail jacked my Soy Bread. I chased after him a little bit and scared him away with some rocks. I partook in the worst sleep of the whole trip that night, but loved waking up with the Sunrise. The second day we climbed Cloud Tower, a six pitch 11d that had some super scary pro. The hike in was 2 hours and the hike out was just as excruciating. We left the Crag and got message that a good friend from San Diego came into town, Nate ClayColb. We hung out at the Hooters pool and got one of my favorite new treats, Boba. My last days handed me the coolest experiences, showing me that staying positive pays off. The mind is a crazy thing, but I learned that it's job is to try and distract us. "It is a tall order to ask for chicken without the bones and tea without the leaves".The mind is made of emotions it is how react to them, which dictates our mood. The mind an emotion is like being an old wise man watching children play. 
Now Back in San Diego, I realized that I am living in one of the most beautiful areas. Just confirmation that there is no place like home. The weather is much cooler than Las Vegas and that is quite enjoyable. I witnessed Lahna's High School graduation (who is my girlfriend of over 2 years) ,which was exciting for both of us. I saw my good friend Ben Ferrel the first day I came back, and we watched some of the Beatle's Anthology. I ran a circuit at Santee Boulders early Friday morning, and trained in the gym the rest of the day. I start working at the local gym sometime in the next two weeks to save for my trip to Lander, Wyoming in early July. I went surfing this morning and found much enjoyment in the meditation of the water. I am eating really healthy, staying active all the time, and am grateful to be where I am at. It brings me much happiness to be on summer, and am looking forward to sending some really hard routes later this year. The only thing I am lacking here at home, is the huge limestone routes at Charleston!

Friday, June 6, 2008

Boot Camp and Health Food Tips

A few More from Boot Camp
Yesterday was an upper body training day @ Boot Camp Las Vegas. Here was the routine:
  • Start running about 1 mile. 
  • Have stations preset before run they are as follows. 
  • Pull Ups: Do as many pull ups as you can for 2 minutes..You can rest just try as many as you can. 
  • Dips: Do as many dips with the feet off the ground for 2 minutes
  • Booso Ball:Get you back propped on something if you don't have a Booso Ball, and crank out as many military presses as you can with 15 lbs free weights for 2 minutes. 
  • Military Press: Stand Up and grab either the same free weights (if your not totally pumped and dizzy) or some lighter 12 or 10 lb free weights. Crank out as many military presses as you can in 2 minutes. 
  • Bicep Curls: With the same weights do as many Bicep Curls as you can within 2 minutes. (remember keep you elbows at your side, to isolate your biceps)
  • Push Ups: Do as many push up as you can on a flat surface for 2 minutes
  • Sit Ups: Do as many sit ups as you can on a flat comfortable surface for 2 minutes. (Best to have a buddy holding you feet). 
  • Dips: Do as many dips on a bench with your feet at 90 degrees for 2 minutes. 
  • At this point you are probably gonna be worked. A 1 minute span between each work out is tolerated. 
  • When you complete the last set of dips Lay on your back. Keep your feet six inches off the ground along with your arms. Hold for 20 seconds or till it starts to become hard. 
  • Roll onto your right side and hold your feet and upper body up in the air. This will work your obliques. Hold till it is hard. 
  • Roll onto your Stomach and hold your legs up and arms up looking forward with your butt tightly flexed to keep stable. 
  • Roll onto your left side and squeeze those opposite obliques, just as above. 
  • Repeat till in original position. 
  • Lay on your on your back and bring your feet and back up just like you were in a reclining chair. Go back and forth (legs out upper body back, and legs in and upper body up) just like you were in a reclining chair. 
  • Do the Bicycle on your back for 2 minutes. 
  • REPEAT!
Some interesting Health Food Tips: 
23 Really Good Fat fighting foods: 
Avocados: Low fat diet? Eat an avocado to decrease injury and strengthen joints and tendons
Whole Grain Bagels: Want a steady flow of energy before a workout? Eat a friken whole grain bagel. 
Bananas: Replaces sweat loss and fluid absorption. Also has a lot of energy fo' real son. 
Leafy Greens: Spinach, mustard Greens and other dark greens are full of fiber, vitamins and antioxidants. 
Cinnamon: Eating Cinnamon with food helps metabolize sugar! Excess sugar leads to fat, so add it to your cereal and fo' sho with your protein shake. 
Low-Fat Cottage Cheese: 1/2 cup serving heals the muscle tissue that has been torn during workouts. 
Cranberries:Pre- or post- workout pack of carbohydrates. Also Proanthocyanins help with urinary tracts.
Eggs: Eggs are good for brainpower and plus is a good source of Iron. 
Oranges:Rich in Vitamin C, they help repair muscle tissue, they contain Colagen which keeps bones strong and firms skin. 
Garlic and Onions: Eat your salsa Boy! It breaks down fatty deposits in the body and helps against diseases of the heart and other illnesses. 
Salmon: Good for heart health but now monounsaturated fats and omega 3's help lessen abdominal fat, so ladies looking to flatten their stomach, eat more salmon!
Berries: The deeper the color, the healthier the fruit. 
Carrots:Half a cup just has 35 calories but provides energy to the muscles and potassium to control blood pressure and muscle contractions. 
Grapefruits: Eating a grapefruit before meals decreases insulin levels for up to two hours after eating..They could be better than dieting alone. 
Olives and Olive Oil: They reduce your craving for junky foods and keep yo' ass feeling full. 
Whole Grain Cereal: Eating whole grain cereal before workout. The healthiest brands contain endurance boosting complex carbs and muscle building proteins.  Fuel up with a 200 calorie snack: 3/4 a cup of whole grain cereal with 4 ounces of fat free milk. You'll work out harder and longer and won't overeat afterward. 
Oatmeal:Eat the unsweetened kind and you will have  a lot of energy and reduces your cravings for fatty foods. 
Ground Flax-Seed: They help escort fat soluble toxins out. During endurance sports it is bad to have digestive issues. Like running and having to poo? Just isn't that fun. A daily dose of 1-2 tablespoons tossed in cereal or on hummus with tomatoes nets you fiber son!
Peanuts: Raw unsalted kinds provide extra fat for endurance sports by giving the muscles extra energy to burn up front so that they can spare glycogen stores for later. 
Potatoes: A small baked potato with some salt is the perfect meal for electrolyte replacement. 
Chicken: LADIES! Chicken Thighs or turkey are significantly less fatty than red meat yet has all the iron, zinc, and B vitamins that women need!
Hummus: Helps fight Breast Cancer, but also has great Complex Carbs, proteins and unsaturated fats! All the right elements to fuel activity. 
Chocolate Milk: Chocolate Milk has Calcium but it has also been proven that within 20 minutes of workout Cocoa is just as powerful as commercial recovery drinks. 
I hope you enjoyed my insight into eating foods that cut down the fat and increase your power during a workout..All of it is real healthy. Eating these foods help your liver which is the organ that metabolizes fat. Also Cut down on the Alcohol, drink healthy if you do, Good beers and Good Wines, and in moderation of course. Live Long and Prosper!
  

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

Progression and Cooking Lessons From Vegas





The Beauty of Mt. Charleston, escaping the desert heat, encompassing myself in the beautiful wilderness. Housing some of the greatest climbing, Charleston is my home away from home. Charleston gives me comfort and meditation, away from the daily thoughts that distract the mind. When I am there they just seem to flutter away. I enjoy waking up, driving out, and becoming more familiar with the climbing there. 
Highlights: Redpointed Urban Decay           
Today is a rest day. I really wanted to climb but I have been on almost this whole Trip. Plus, Chris and Dave wanted to Rest. I had to take care of some errands too. I tried to stay active today, because our rest days usually involve Boot Camp Training. I hiked around the Kraft Boulders this A.M. assisting Lilly on her first ascent of "Monkey Bar". We visited a really cool Organic Raw Vegan Store, where I got all these cool recipes. I thought I would share them all with you. 
Recipes, Snacks:
  • Toasts: Avo "Butter" Toast- Avocado, sliced tomato & hemp seeds
  • Yummus Hummus- Hummus, sliced tomato & hemp seeds
  • Bruchetta Toast- "cheese" (which you can use if ya' ain't Vegan) tomato, basil, garlic, pine, nuts, and your favorite herbs. 
  • P.B.J-Almond Butter & Jam on Sweet Bread
  • Tropical Toast-Coconut Butter& Mango Jam on sweet bread    w/ bananna. 
  • Like Wraps?
  • Veggie Wrap: Pesto, Almond Cheese (again, if you are a vegan!) tomato, avocado, sprouts, onions, cucumbers, and carrots, wrapped in collard greens. 
  • Mediterranean Wrap: A combo of Hummus, Sprouts, tomatoes, cucumbers, bell peppers, organic Greek Olives, and mixed greens, served in collard Greens. Served with tabouleh?
I also heard about Ayurvedic Recipes, which is an Ancient science, translated as "Science of Life." It is used to maintain optimal health. I will add about 3 daily.
Here are some cool recipes from the book: 
Almond milk 
  • 2 cups water
  • 16 soaked and peeled almonds
  • 1/8 tsp Cardamom
  • 1/4 tsp vanilla
  • 1/2 Tbsp. Raw Sugar
  • 1/2 Tbsp maple syrup
  • Blend and serv or beat water to nearly boiling, add ingredients in blender or frappe.
Breakfast, Amaranth Cereal
  • 2 Cup  Amaranth
  • 1 1/4 cinnamon
  • 1/4 tsp. Jamaican Allspice
  • 2 Tsp Sucanat
  • 1/4 Cup Raisins 
  • 1 Qt Water (or desired consistency)
  • Add amaranth, spices and raisins to water
  • Bring to Boil 
  • Lower Heat, simmer until thickened, cover and stir occasionally
  • Optional Serve with Ghee, maple syrup, almonds, sesame seeds, and or milk. 
Lunch Butternut Squash Soup  & Cilantro Dill Yogurt Dressing
  • Serving Size 4 people
  • 2 butternut Squash, peeled (1/2 Squash per person)
  • 1 1/2 Cups     Ginger Cubed
  • 1 1/2 Tbsp     Ghee
  • 1/2 Tbsp     Cinnamon Powder
  • 4 Cups       Water
  • 1 Tbsp       Sucanat  and parsley for garnish. 
  • Peel and Cube Squash. Make sure to discard any seeds. In a medium sized soup pot, warm ghee at medium heat. Add cinnamon and sucanat and mix well with Ghee. Add squash cubes and ginger to pot and cover. Add water once squash is tender. Boil for 20 minutes Remove from heat. Blend Mixture. Consistency should be that of baby food.   Serve warm and add parsley as garnish. 
  • Cilantro Dill Salad Dressing
  • 16 oz.  Organic Plain yogurt
  • 1 bunch   fresh dill
  • 1 bunch fresh cilantro
  • 1 Tbsp   Olive Oil
  • 1 tsp     Salt
  • Blend all this and toss on yo' favorite salad. 
Dinner,  Asian Vegetables Serving Size four to six homies or homegirls
  • 1 lb baby carrots 
  • 1 lb sweet snap peas
  • 1lb sweet yellow and red peppers
  • 1 1/2 lb leeks (optional) substitute less amount of arugula
  • 3/4 Tbsp Curry
  • 1 Cup Coconut milk (fresh if possible)
  • Cut leeks or arugula, and baby carrots diagonally in lengths of about 2 inches.
  • Slice peppers length wise about the same length as the leeks, or arugula. Sautee leeks or arugula in Ghee, and Curry. 
  • Let it soften a bit and add carrots, peppers and peas. 
  • Add coconut mik, simmer and serve on bed of basmati rice. 
Have some Questions?
What is Ghee?
Ghee 
2 LB of unsalted Organic Butter
Turn stove to medium
Melt butter in a stainless steel saucepan. As the butter melts, cooks and bubles, it will change appearance from milky to cloudy to translucent. Foam will appear, causing a ring of milk solids around the sides of pan. 
After 10-15 minutes the bubbles will look clear as well as the butter becoming clear and golden. You will be able to see the bottom of the pan. Watch the Ghee closely for the last 5 minutes to prevent burning! Once all the butter has become a clear golden liquid. All the water content and milk solids have been cooked out..Now you got Ghee.
Remove Ghee from stove and allow it to cool for 20 minutes. using a fine mesh strainer, pour ghee into glass container for storage. Ghee becomes a solid when it is completely cooked and does not require refrigeration. If you happen to cook it too long and it becomes a little brown. It is still good! It will even aquire a richer nuttier taste!
What's good about Ghee it contains no additives, strengthens the immune system, and helps your digestion. 



Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Boot Camp Training



Boot Camp Training, Las Vegas
  • Run 1 mile
  • Sit Ups, V Ups, Crunches (10 sets, 10-1 Reps) hard!
  • Push Ups, Dive Bombers (10 sets, 10-1 Reps) hard!
  • Weights 10-15 lbs bicep curls (25 reps) Tricep Curl (behind head) (25 reps), Military Press (25 reps) *(4 Sets of all these)  * In between sets do 25 push ups, and 25 dips on bleacher. 
  • ABS- 3 sets of 15 Reps (Sit Ups)
  • 1 minutes of twisty crunches (side to side) or 3 sets of 15 reps Twisties
Boot Camp Training, Las Vegas
  • Run up Small Hill 4x 1 way with 12 lbs. medicine balls
  • zig zag cone course make sure you touch each cone
  • slolem poles
  • 4 buckets 24 lbs in each...Run 50 yds 1 way, run back and retrieve next set
  • Lunge 50 yds with 15 lbs hand weight(s)
  • Run 50 yds and jump over 3 tables Run back full length. 
  • Do this a total of 3 times. 
  • End resting with only back against wall and feet at 90 degrees. Then stop and do calf lifts on the edge of a curb. 100 of these. 
Boot Camp Training, Las Vegas 
  • Run a mile passing 12 lbs medicine ball to partner in back of you...Last person in line gets it and then runs it to front. Continue this till mile is done. 
  • 2 minutes of push ups as many as you can Hard!
  • 2 minutes sit ups as many as you can Hard!
  • Big Tires Squat and roll over for 20 yards. Do planks around whole tire. 
  • Hold Plank for 2 minutes and repeat back to where you started. Do plank around whole tire. 
  • Hold feet up and hands up while sitting on derrier for 2 minutes. 
  • Go to tire 25 push ups in plank plus 25 dips run foot ball field and jog back. 
  • Repeat that 2 times
  • Go to 45 degree hill or and for 2 minutes and 30 seconds to twisties. (Hold crunch and go side to side. Hard! on hill especially. Challenge!
  • Lay on 45 degree hill with legs facing up hill. (legs can face down hill for more resistance)
  • Legs out for 10 sec--> Legs spread 10 sec-->Left leg up 10 sec--> Right up 10 sec--> Both Left 10 sec--> Both Right 10 sec --> Center 10 sec..  Do 3 times. (Challenging)
  • 10 V ups 
  • 10 butt lifts
When I get back home I will be modifying some of these training techniques. Hope you enjoyed. 

Monday, June 2, 2008

16 Days in Vegas

May 27th 2008, I left San Diego to go visit my climbing partner and friend Chris Lindner in Las Vegas, Nevada. I arrived at 10:10 a.m. Greeted by Jodi Johnson (chris' girlfriend), Chris, and Josh (Jodi's Cousin). I was anxious to go climbing.  The evening of the 27th we ventured out to Kraft Rocks, a bouldering area just East of Red Rock Canyon. We warmed up, and were joined by local, Lilly, one of Jodi's climbing partners. Jodi sent her project: Potato Chips, which I believe is an old John Long Boulder problem. I stumbled up on the hill and found this amazing looking overhanging boulder, and proceeded to climb it. The picture to the right was taken by Chris details this climb. 
The Vegas trip is a training trip, and nothing but that. I am not so much focused on sending as much as I am getting mileage and experience on various routes. 
Mt. Charleston will be our main cliff of interest for the trip. The first day, Josh, Chris, and myself checked out a new cliff with an undecided name. There are two really cool new routes down there, plus a really unique bouldering area with a lot of route potential. After, we went to Robber's Roost. I worked on an extension that goes left @ the third bolt of "Connie Loves Daddy". It is long, technical, and exactly what I am looking for. We havn't been back yet to finish our projects. 
Adding to our training, we have been regularly attending Boot Camp Fitness classes. What is Boot Camp? Boot Camp is hardcore training that Chris teaches class 2 times during the week. Once and a full moon we complete these workouts 3 times a day (the workouts will be detailed below). 
Other climbing days have been spent up at Charleston's "The Hood". I have two seperate routes  I am projecting currently,  but have been open to trying everything. My two routes of interest are "Energizer" ar a route in the Compton cave originally bolted by Jeff Leads one of my personal friends. The other route is called "Warlords", which I have only been on once, but like it very much. This is an Old Dan Mcquade route, hard, but definately do- able for me. We have been climbing three days on now, and are also in the company of Dave Banks, Chris' former room mate from Salt Lake. We attended Bootcamp upper body this morning, but have been resting all day. Dinner is up, but what I really want to show you is my compilation of knowledge from our Boot Camp Work Outs. It is very good training for anyone who wants to get fit, and great cross training for the dedicated climber. Enjoy the summary, and stay tuned to many Posts ahead! Also, check out Asanaclimbing.com and check out their Blog Spot. I am one of their featured atheletes and amvery grateful and fortunate to be writing articles for their blog. On top of that and my own Blog spot now I feel like am falling in love with writing. Enjoy!